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7K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  ChrisMobley 
#1 ·
Redwood burl slab table- Advice needed

Hey guys,
I'm building a kitchen table out of a 3" redwood burl slab and so far it's coming along nicely.
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The legs are being carved from glued up poplar and power carved with an angle grinder.
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Its coming along well so far (though the grinding is creating buckets of very fine dust). I laid the top on the legs last night just to see how it was looking.
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I had filled in a lot of the gaps last week with epoxy and last night I was sanding it to try to level it out a little more when I discovered that the piece is bowing a little more than I thought. The middle is sagging and it seems like no matter how much I sand the edges it won't level out.
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I need some advice. Do you think if I put some angle iron or oak braces on the bottom I could pull it back to a more level surface without breaking the whole thing in half? It's 3" thick and about 48"x30".
 
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#2 ·
I would not try to pull it flat. You will stress the wood and it will eventually crack. Leave the bottom the way it is and fit the legs to it. If the top is really out of flat, I would take a plane to it. It is a work out, but will be worth it in the long run. There are also jigs using a router for flattening that you may consider. Just google flattening slabs and you will get a lot of good ideas.
 
#3 ·
I love your design. You have a great idea and a gifted mind. I agree with Bill. Do not try to force it. Definitely try and joint the top flat and then leave the wood free to move as it wants to throughout its lifetime. Locking it down with cause it to eventually self destruct.

Nate
 
#4 ·
WoodenSoldier,

I'm reallly impressed with your design. The base looks very organic and seems to be really good with the top.

Do NOT try to bend the top back flat. That will certainly cause it to crack. Also, be sure to allow for movement when the top is attached to the base. Do not try to immobilize the joint, either by gluing it or by screwing it tight in multiple points.

Make a router jig to flatten the top. Check the moisture content, it might make sense to let it dry longer before final flattening.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys.
I'm really starting the find my own style I think. I really enjoy the artistic freedom that modern style furniture gives me. Especially when I combine it with other more traditional styles.

Thanks for your advice on leveling the table. If it hadn't been for you guys, I would have attempted to pull it flat with some angle iron and probably would have ruined the whole thing. I didn't feel like setting up a router leveling jig so I just used some 60 grit sand paper on my monster belt sander and chewed the edges down to mostly flat. There is still a slight sag in the middle but it's hardly noticeable and won't affect the use of the table.
I'm posting some more photos in a new blog tonight.

Tony
 
#6 ·
Staining

After some advice from other wise lumberjocks I decided to flatten the top by sanding it with my belt sander instead of trying to pull it flat with angle iron. It still has a very slight sag in the middle but it's hardly noticeable and won't affect the function of the table. I doubt the customer will ever notice unless they pour a glass of water into the middle of the table to see which direction it goes.

I sanded it to 220 and then went back and filled a couple small bubbles in with more epoxy. I've given up on getting every single one of the bubbles but I did get most of them filled in. Then I sanded it again.
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Then I put the first coat of conversion varnish on it using a sponge brush on the top. I tried doing the sides and in the crevices but I couldn't get in there very well so I'll have to spray those.

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The legs are made of poplar and I only sanded them to 120. I used a water-based GF white wash stain on them which I think came out pretty awesome. I was looking for something white that would still show the grain and I'm really happy with the result.
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My wife sketched the basic design of the legs and I used her sketch as inspiration. Some of the things that she put into the drawing would have made it really difficult to make and I had to be realistic.
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Since it was a water based stain and I need to go back over and it sand it again now that the stain raised the grain. Then I'll spray a lacquer or something on it to give it a nice satin sheen and more protection.

Here's a shot of the last dry fit I did before I started finishing it last night. I'm really happy about the way it's turning out aside from a few small mistakes.

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