WoodArtbyJR's Blog at LumberJocks.com

Denali Miter Saw Stand

WoodArtbyJR — Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:49:06 GMT

I just picked up a used Denali miter saw stand but I need to make a repair and get a couple of replacement parts. Does ANYONE have any idea as to who makes it or what I might find replacement parts. I’ve googled it with out any success. Everything I read online states it’s a well made unit. It’s pretty heavy too. Help me if you can.

Thanks

Performax 22-44 Pro Question

WoodArtbyJR — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:46:28 GMT

I am looking to upgrade my drum sander from a 16-32 to the 22-44. I found one locally and he just sent me a pic. I noticed that the Pro is a belt drive unit and the other is a direct drive type. Didn’t know that. SO, here’s the question. Is the belt drive a pro or con for this unit? Help me ou LJs with your vast knowledge base.

Saw Blade Question

WoodArtbyJR — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 18:11:43 GMT

As I have stated in previous blogs, I lost my blade sharpening guy at the begining of this year (another causuality of the ecomomy). Fellow LJ MrEdd told me about a place that he takes his blades. A world wide company named Leitz Tooling. They have a delevery route that is close to my home so I meet the salesperson and take advantage of their service. Prices are good ($15 for a 10” 40 tooth carbide blade sharpening). Haven’t tried the blades yet since I got them back but how can you screw that up?

My question is, right now they have a special going on for their saw blades @ 50% off. Anyone have any experience with their product? I can get a 10” 24 tooth (carbide) rip blade for $33 (which I need). They also have an 80 tooth finish blade for around $45.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Thanks

Jim

Fulton 18" Lathe Chisle Handle

WoodArtbyJR — Tue, 07 Jun 2011 15:47:11 GMT

This is on special at Peachtree Woodworking right now for 50% off ($42.59, reg $84.99). http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_060311.htm
Anyone have one of these and or has anyone used them? I’m thinking of buying the Ci1 & Ci0, in the un-handled version, (based on reviews here at LJ) and thought these handles might be a step UP? I guess the real question is, a handle is a handle, right? OR, once you buy a handle (or 2) then you can purchase future chisles in the un-handled version and save money. Correct, or am I looking at this from the wrong direction?

Your comments and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

Jim

Fatigue Mats

WoodArtbyJR — Sun, 23 Jan 2011 00:47:25 GMT

Not sure if this belongs in a “Review” or “Blog” heading so I’ll place it here. Fatigue mats, you don’t think about them much unless you stand on a hard floor all day (and even then you probably think about them). I purchased a fatigue mat from our beloved Rockler a couple of years ago and loved it. It was sent to me rolled up and took about a year before it would lay flat. Still, working in front of my lath for hours at a time I found that it was a GREAT addition to my shop.

Well, the other day I got a hair brained idea that a childs play area mat might work as well. So, I looked on craigslist and found one for $20. The childs play area mat is 36 sq ft of 5/8” thick foam that is a little softer then the Rockler mat (6 sq ft). Another plus for the childs mat is that it can be assembled into just about shape you would want (12” X 12” squares). To stand on for hours at a time, this mat is very good (and much cheaper).

Just an idea, thought, tip, suggestion or an “Oh by the way”. I just thought that someone else MIGHT find this as a usefull suggestion.

Oak in a Cutting Board?

WoodArtbyJR — Sat, 08 Jan 2011 04:53:55 GMT

Oak is not recommended for end grain cutting boards and I am guessing that is because the end grain is so porous that bacteria could collect and grow. NOW, if you use the wiping varnish method wouldn’t that theoretically seal the pores preventing an opening for bacteria to collect?

Pizza Paddle FInish

WoodArtbyJR — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 02:38:51 GMT

My daughter received a pizza paddle for Christmas (not from me). She went online to see how to season it and found suggestions to use tung oil. She called me to question this. She said that the article also stated that it would take about two weeks to get it finally seasoned using tung oil. It also stated the hardening tung oil would also help the pizza slide off the paddle easier. Not having a clue I told her I would submit this the you all (THE EXPERTS IN ALL THINGS WOOD). OK, here’s your chance. Enlighten us, PLEASE. Is tung oil the best way to season/seal a pizza paddle or just let the natural oils from the food products season it? Since this paddle isn’t used daily I wouldn’t think letting the oils from the foods do it would be a good idea.

New Members?

WoodArtbyJR — Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:58:27 GMT

I have a friend that I sent to our web site so he could look it over and join. He sent me an e-mail saying it wouldn’t let him join/sign up as we were full and couldn’t take any new members. Is this true or did he just punch the wrong key?

Anybody have any answers for this?

Holiday Craft Season Coming to an End

WoodArtbyJR — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 16:34:45 GMT

Here it is Dec 16th already and my crasft season has ended. Oct 16th marked my first FULL year of craft shows. I learned a lot this last year. Mainly, when setting up or getting ready for a show, you REALLY haven’t a clue as to what will sell and what won’t….... I thnk it’s like the coined phrase, “Ya pays ya nickle and ya takes ya chances”. SO TRUE. I know one thing (OK, maybe a couple) LVDTs are always a popular item and I will continue to make them avasilable to folks. As my daughter travels the globe working for the US State Dept. she gives my peppermills to fellow workes as gifts. At different shows I have sold my LVDTs to folks all over the US and that pleases me to think that others (world wide) like my new found craft. To all of them, THANK YOU.
NOW, for the happy part of this blog. In a few hours I, and my lovely bride of 36 years, will depart our home/shop to catch a plane to start enjoying our Christmas present to ourselves. We board a cruise ship for a Mexican Christmas Cruise Holiday. If I don’t gain 20lbs over the next 2 weeks I am going to be disappointed. So, as George Carlin used to say, I have a lot of “STUFF” to do so I am wishing all you LJers a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS (if you celebrate Christmas), a HAPPY NEW YEAR or a JOYOUS HOLIDAY. Thank you for reading, participating and being part of our little community. Martin, I think LVDT needs to be a tag…..

VIVA LA LVDT

See you all in January

I need a new Dado set up - Any recommendations

WoodArtbyJR — Mon, 06 Dec 2010 16:56:16 GMT

My old carbide dado went BER (beyond economacal repair). I need some thoughts from you folks that will assist me in deciding what to replace it with. I haven’t a clue…...

Bamboo #2

WoodArtbyJR — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 01:12:50 GMT

Well, here are the steps that I accomplished to get to this point. I did run the cut strips thru the drum sander to clean them up a little and to take any imperfections out so the glue would hold better, at least that was the plan. I hope to take the clamps off tomorrow and maybe run it thru the drum sander to see if my design will hold true.

Misc. bamboo pieces I have to work with

Cut blanks to be cut into strips

Cut strips

Strips turned on edge

Bundled edge pieces

Hopefully this is what the board will look like

Glued and clamped

Bamboo #1

WoodArtbyJR — Wed, 27 Oct 2010 00:35:28 GMT

I was the fortunate recipient of a load of oak, ash, birch, maple, jatoba and some bamboo today. Thank you Eric. In this lot there were some strips of 1/2” & 3/4” thick solid core bamboo plywood. I know people sell bamboo cutting boards. So,I was thinking of cutting these into strips, stand them on edge, gluing them together and would end up with an end grain bamboo cutting board. Will this stuff glue easly? I know some woods don’t glue very well. Anyone have any experience gluing bamboo? I would think, Titebond lll should handle this task. It would definately provide an interesting cutting board look. Any thoughts degoose, dusty or Bill Roberts?

Mineral Oil, Tung Oil or Walnut Oil on Cutting Boards (and other things)

WoodArtbyJR — Fri, 22 Oct 2010 20:51:29 GMT

What are the differences between the three oils? Mineral oil is the cheapest. Tung and walnut are priced about the same and both can cause alergic reactions to those that are alergic to nuts. So, I ask, what are the finishing differences. Is one better then the other (other then the cost)? Or does it just get down to a personal preference? As advertised, walnut oil will provide a hardened surface after being exposed to UVs. Mineral oil will need additional coats as it drys out. Tung oil needs to be thinned to penetrate better in the first coats. Mineral oil heated and mixed with bees wax provides a very nice seal coal. Can you do the same with walnut or tung oil or would this be counter productive. Or, if you’re going to do this, wouldn’t you be just as well off (and much cheaper) to use mineral oil and bees wax? Come on LJs, give me your thoughts, ideas, experience and or preference.

Turning Soft/Punky Spalted Maple

WoodArtbyJR — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:43:41 GMT

OK LJ turners, I need your wisdom. I have 2 (had three) pieces of very beautiful spalted maple that leans to the punky side in areas. I tried turning one this morning for a peppermill and areas of it were so soft/punky that it chipped out and was not acceptable (my standards) to finish and try to sell (I can salvage it as bottle stoppers). I have used super glue in the past to secure cracks and small areas of softness but that stuff gets expensive. I know I have heard/read here on LJ of a product but the name of it escapes me at the moment. So help me out and tell me what you do in this situation. I don’t want to throw these pieces in to the burn pile as the spalting is just gorgeous and will make very beautiful peppermills.

Performax 16/32 Drum Sander #2

WoodArtbyJR — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 15:52:09 GMT

Well, I’ve had some time to use my new tool acquisition and have discovered a few things (I’m sometimes a SLOW learner). My performax is of the older vintage and has a 2.5” exhaust port with a 4” adapter so I connected it to my Oneida cyclone system and went to work. BAD IDEA….....The Oneida system is a GREAT system but, cleaning the internal filter is not the easiest thing to do. SO, after using the sander for a relative short period I noticed that the suction was lacking and cleaned the filter. While cleaning the filter I had an epiphany, DUH, use the shop vac. MUCH easier to clean the filter…...Now I wish I hadn’t gotten rid of my Grizzly 4 bag dust collector when I upgraded to the Oneida. With the bag type all I would have had to do was shake the bag and I’d be good to go. Oh well.

The quality of my cutting boards has improved greatly irt post glue sanding. My cutting boards are mainly made of South American hardwoods and after a few passes the planer knives don’t cut like a hot knife thru butter anymore so I start getting small areas of rip out on some wood species. VOILA, Performax (drum sander) to the rescue and the nasty rip outs disappear and you have a beautiful board. I also use it to clean up my cut edges prior to gluing (hopefully better glue joints).

This is the starting of the HEAVY Holiday Bazaar season so I haven’t had the time to REALLY ensure that everthing tracks true so in Jan I am going to put the fine tune to the adjustments on the machine. This is one of those tools that I am not sure how I got along without it. The only reason I finally purchased one was I went to my son-in-law’s dad’s shop and we cleaned up 2 end grain and about 6 long grain boards and I was sold. Thanks Clay.

I am sure that many of you have already experienced some of my whoa’s and if not then hopefully you can eliminate them from your future and learn my mishaps.

Love to hear any additional thoughts and problems I might encounter.

Happy sanding (or chip and dust making).

Wood Identification

WoodArtbyJR — Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:55:10 GMT

OK LJs, I need some help here. I went back to the barn where I got my Performax and picked up the clamps Ralph had. As I was leaving I walked by a wood pile and these two pieces were just laying on the ground. I kicked them over as asked what they were. He had no idea and said if I wanted them, they were mine. I was told by my wise old uncle one time, “NEVER PASS UP FREE WOOD”. So I threw them into the truck. I need help in trying to identifying them. The are local Pacific Northwest species.

I sanded the end grain a little. I am color blind but isn’t the unsanded endgrain orange? Orange Oasage? I feels very hard to the finger nail scratch test. Barbs – you just worked on some orange osage. Did it look like this?

This is the other piece. I sanded the end grain on this one too.

This is the long grain and I sanded it as well. It seams to have the straiations of the oak or ash family.

Here are 3 shots of the bark. Bark seems pretty thick. Looks like either a woodpecker or bugs have bored into the bark.

Hope my pics help you to help me ID these two.

Performax 16/32 Drum Sander

WoodArtbyJR — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:45:40 GMT

Well, my show went very well this weekend so I am looking for a drum sand so I can improve the quality of my cutting boards and produce some end grain boards. I just found one on craigslist for $395 and now I need some advice. The manufacture date on the motor is ‘96 and the color of the unit is green. I am not sure when they switched to white. Other then listening/checking for bad bearings and looking at the overall condition, what else should I be looking at or for. This unit also comes with beaucoup belts (per the lister). There is also another one listed for $650 that is 6 years old. Should I spend the extra $250 or is the 14 year old unit good/decent buy? Or are both over priced. I don’t want to spend an extra $250 if I really don’t need to. HELP ME LJs.

Natural Edged Maple Burl Bowl I Saw

WoodArtbyJR — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 22:47:41 GMT

On my way from the ferry to the Sounders game yesterday my wife & I passed a Woodworking Store (in the Pioneer Square area of Seattle on First) that sold handcrafted items. Displayed in the window was a natural edged maple burl bowl probably close to 20” in dia & close to 12” high that was simply GEORGOUS. The chest it was sitting on was beautiful as well. It was in the same shape as my maple bowl I just posted. I told my wife that the cost of the burl alone was several hundred $ and told her that Greg @ OregonBurls in Grants Pass OR would probably have something like this (the seed is planted). I have no idea who the artist is that turned this bowl but it is a sight to see. There’s something about that natural edge of a maple burl that just grabs me. I love what Bill (taidsturning) does but that natural edge is something of beauty. If any of you locals are in Pioneer Square, look for this store and look at this bowl. I wish I had a picture of it to share.

Wine Bottle Stpper Products

WoodArtbyJR — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 19:43:28 GMT

Currently I am making two styles of stoppers, cork and the metal o-ring type from Rockler (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18020&filter=wine%20stopper). I like the crome o-ring type from Rockler because of it’s sealing capability. I presently get my cork from Packard Woodworks (http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=151322&Category_Code=proj-supp-botstop-botsc) and can make stoppers cheaply and use them as a loss leader at the bazaars I attend. Does anyone have any better suggestions on the o-ring type, i.e. cheaper then Rockler. I can’t justify paying almost $7 for the stopper, making the head and trying to get a decent price for them. I sell the cork stopper for $5 and lately asking $10 for the o-ring type (and not selling many). Any suggestion on how to cut the overhead?????

I know, I know, who leaves a bottle of wine open long enough to need a superior sealing wine stopper……..

Wood Species #1: Name This Wood

WoodArtbyJR — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 02:56:47 GMT

Rick (schlemoe, Roseburg OR) placed a picture of a piece of wood on the Projects page and asked for help in identifing it. At last count we had 26 comments trying to help identify it. We had some real interesting thoughts posted. So, I thought I would post a picture of a piece of wood and see how many correct identifications we could log. The difference in this case is I DO KNOW WHAT IT IS. Let’s just test our wood identification knowledge. This should be an easy one for you.