Handplane Restoration #10: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After

Awesome work, Wanye. It makes we want to comb ebay again for some that are in need of rehabbing. Good luck with the #4 and congrats on the 5 1/4!

-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN

Wayne, ya done good! A great restore for sure.

-- Jimmy

Thanks. Still waiting on the 5 1/4. The seller does not take paypal and I had to send a check via snailmail.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne -

Revisting this post. Beautiful job! I appreciate the detailed report on the 5 1/4.

I am wondering if that bench will have trouble leaving your shop?! I am jealous . . .

Good luck on the $20 #1 and #2 to complete your set of bench planes!

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

LOL. I’m not holding my breath. But thanks.

The cheapest #2 I have seen in a while has been $170 and perhaps $700 for a #1. I have seen #1s in good shape sell for over $1500 on ebay. You never know….

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne,

Really nice. A little attention goes long way.

After the glue repair on the handle, what else did you do to it? It looks perfect…

-- Steve (Plano, TX)

Your only chance for a #1 or #2 for $20 is at a yard sale nowadays.

Been looking for almost 30 years and haven’t stumbled onto that yard sale yet.

And then, I know some of you will think I’m crazy, I struggle with giving someone $20 for something they obviously don’t know is pretty valuable.

-- Paul, Texas

Thanks Chipper. I used shellac on the handles and the jappaning. I also rub Renaissance Wax on the planes.

I would be real surprised to run across a #1 or #2 these days. I keep hoping to find one in an antique store or a flea market. I broke down and went the Lie-Nielson route.

Yes, it does provide an ethical issue.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Beautiful work once again! I want bigger pictures! Maybe next time?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Wayne,

I was working on my #4 from ebay that arrived late last week. A comment and a couple of quesitons:

1) I used citric acid in the concentration you suggested. It took a couple of hours before I saw a difference. A lot of hand work with the scouring pad. It worked, just too longer than your efforts. I obtained by acid from a home brewer outfit, so I would guess it would have the same level of acidity.

2) Do you scuff up the tote and front handle before applying the shellac? I want to get to the same polished appearance that you achieved.

3) Do you put the sole in the acid bath? I didn’t but thought about it.

4) I am using Boshield T-9, which happens to have a wax component. Happen to know of any greater benefit using Renaissance Wax?

5) Someone (maybe you) wrote of a base set of planes. What Stanley’s make a the “base set”? I’m trying for the working set that was suggested elsewhere (60 1/2, #4, #5, #7, #92), but I am curious about what makes a base set.

6) Electrolysis – the citric acid removes material, while electrolysis can put on material. I have some pitting on the sole of my Dunlop that would require a lot more metal to come off the sole in order to fix. Could electrolysis be used to fix this (paint/wax the areas not needing material)? How long might it take to actually make a difference? Is the electrolysis actually just being used to boil the rust off (moving metal the wrong way)?

-- Steve (Plano, TX)

Thanks Dorje, if I get time I will adjust the photo size.

Steve

1) I used the scouring pad every 20 minutes to a half hour while it was soaking. I think you just need to experiment with the level you use.

2) I used steel wool and denatured alcohol to clean it up.

3) You can if needed. I did not use Acid on this particiular plane.

4) I have not tried T-9. I like the wax and do all parts.

5) In this blog I was putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. Everything from 1-8 plus the 1/2 and 1/4 sizes. For a base set I would recommend a Low angle and standard angle block plane, Smooting Plane, Jack Plane, and a Jointer Plane. Add a shoulder plane if your doing Mortice and Tennon work.

6) I belive you may be contrasting electroplating with electrolysis. I belive electrolysis just removes rust without removing any iron. I would lap the sole to remove the pitting. And if the key areas of the bottom are flat (toe, heel and around the mouth), I would not worry about the pitting.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Thanks! Wayne. This helps!

-- Steve (Plano, TX)

Your most welcome.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Just wanted to say thanks for this blog. I ordered a couple planes on ebay yesterday and I plan to use your blog as a reference guide to clean them up. I know you posted this a while ago, but your work to do this is still helping me out almost 2 yrs later. Thanks again.

WAYNE, GOOD RESTORATION. I THINK THE BROKEN HANDLE IS A COMMON PROBLEM. MINE ALSO. FIXED ONCE BEFORE BUT GONE AGAIN.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

Great restore.

If you or anyone is serious I have a pair of 2C, high/low knob, looking to part w/ one. PM if interested.

-- Ciao, gth.