Handplane Restoration #9: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up

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Blog entry by WayneC posted 04-14-2007 10:02 PM 13684 reads 3 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 8: A couple of new candidates Part 9 of Handplane Restoration series Part 10: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After »

I’ve been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post “Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before”. Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.

Before Photo


I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it’s jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.

To clean up the exposed metal parts, I’m using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.

Cleaning up metal parts

Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I’m looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.

Lapping Supplies

The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.

Top View

Lapping plate, grit, and plane

Sole Before

Sole before

Side Before

Side Before

This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.

Parts after cleaning

I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.

I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I’ve seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.

After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.

It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

12 comments so far

View Karson's profile


35111 posts in 4364 days

#1 posted 04-14-2007 10:16 PM

Great start. And tutorial for all to follow.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View Jeff's profile


1010 posts in 4057 days

#2 posted 04-14-2007 11:57 PM

Great post Wayne. Can you go into more detail about lapping with the grit on glass in another post sometime? I’ve never read or heard about that… Seems cool because I have only used Scarey Sharp to do my irons and have been pleased with that. The only thing I know of is the emery paper on the jointer bed trick for soles.

-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN

View WayneC's profile


13753 posts in 4061 days

#3 posted 04-15-2007 12:13 AM

Thanks Karson and Caliper.

Float glass is very flat and like the bed of a Jointer is a good candidate for flatening a plane. Lee valley sells the plate I have in the photos above. They also sell adhesive plastic sheets can are applied to the glass and the carbide grit. Info on this can be found in the link in the blog entry.

I found that the grit can be found for less money at a lapidary supply store. I belive the grit I purchased was $2.60 per pound.

In his video, Ernie Conover uses a large piece of glass that he epoxies a piece of lamanent. This helps the grit cut as I understand it. This is a pretty good video for the $10 asking price.

Basically you pour some grit on the lapping plate and wet it with water. You then rub the sole or side against the plate until you have an even scratch pattern across the entire surface. You then wash the plane off and then can air dry it using your compressor or rags. You need to be careful and wear eye protection if your using the compressor to keep from getting any grit in your eyes.

I actually think I prefer sandpaper for lapping. I did not feel like digging it out this morning. (It goy burried in the garage a couple of weeks ago). I also have a Granite Surface Plate from WoodCraft. I normally use it with sand paper. I will do the next plane with that.

Oh and did you see these Calipers in my shop?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Jeff's profile


1010 posts in 4057 days

#4 posted 04-15-2007 12:34 AM

That is cool! What does one measure with a caliper that size?

I like the sign behind as well. Thanks for the process description.

-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN

View WayneC's profile


13753 posts in 4061 days

#5 posted 04-15-2007 12:37 AM

Your welcome. I belive it is from the lumber or railroad industry. I happened across it on one of my tool hunting trips. It said it needed to find a place on my wall. The sign was a good 50 cent garage sale find. I still need to organize the shop and get things displayed approprately.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View scottb's profile


3648 posts in 4290 days

#6 posted 04-15-2007 01:25 AM

Do you use those calipers to measure your turnings? Handy for measuring the wall thickness of bowls, and when your pens are just about the right size ;)

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Van Gogh -- --

View WayneC's profile


13753 posts in 4061 days

#7 posted 04-15-2007 01:28 AM

I had joked to my wife about them being weight watcher’s calipers…. I just put a tape measure to them. They are 33 1/2” long (closed).

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View oscorner's profile


4563 posts in 4274 days

#8 posted 04-15-2007 01:39 AM

Those are profit calipers, right WayneC?

-- Jesus is Lord!

View Wooder's profile


163 posts in 4150 days

#9 posted 04-15-2007 03:49 PM

Love those fettling jobs!!! Guess I need to move up in the world and get a float glass and try it. I have used my TS top, jointer bed and last few years a peice of MDF. It’s very flat and has worked fine. Guess I’m too cheap…lol
I also do a final lapping with the plane put together, (iron adj up). This emulates all the stress points as if I were using the plane. Not sure it makes that big a deal. Got the info from Garrett Hack’s The Handplane Book.
That #3 is gonna be sweet!!! Can’t wait to see the finished product.


-- Jimmy

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

767 posts in 4137 days

#10 posted 04-15-2007 05:38 PM


I was always told you should set up the plane for use (blade retracted, of course) before you lap the sole and sides, as you’re applying tension to the plane that is otherwise not there. If you lap the sole flat first, and then add the frog and apply tension, you’ll then end up with a sole that isn’t flat anymore.

Have you done any tests on that, comparing one technique vs. the other? If so, what are your thoughts on the issue?

-- Ethan,

View WayneC's profile


13753 posts in 4061 days

#11 posted 04-16-2007 04:18 AM

I’ve seen arguments on both sides relative to lapping with and without the frog in the plane. I’m not sure if it really makes a difference. I’ve got another 5-6 planes to lap before I’m done. I’ll try it both ways and let you know if I can tell the difference.

This number 3 was really not a very good test. It’s sole was pretty flat to begin with and it is fairly small.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View DouginVa's profile


490 posts in 2237 days

#12 posted 03-01-2013 09:04 PM

One bit of advice that was passed on to me a while back, and I didn’t see that it was done in your case. When you flatten your plane on glass or granite, you should do it with the frog, iron, chip breaker and handles all installed….with the iron backed out obviously.

This puts the torque in the plane body and could chane it’s shape relative to a flat surface. This way when you start flattening it the sole of the plane will flatten as if it’s being used, not when it’s sitting by itself without the other components attached and tightened.

-- Just a man with his chisel.........

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