I’ve been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post “Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before”. Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it’s jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
To clean up the exposed metal parts, I’m using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I’m looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I’ve seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov