I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it’s front knob.
The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune’s Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane’s type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector’s value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
Applying the shellac
Next step is to put everything together. I’m using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
And here it is in it’s rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set
-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov