If you remember, I left off last time, wondering whether the old pine boards were wide enough for the Stanley 45 to stand up in the box. Well, thankfully they were. Mind you, it was so close that I couldn’t plane all the slight dings out for fear of the lid not closing.
Having decided on mitred corners, my first job was to shoot the ends square – an easy few minutes at the shooting board with my no.5-1/2. My shooting board fence is fixed, and half the year it seems to need a shim of up to a few thou placed at it’s mid-point to ensure accuracy. By checking the board I’m shooting with an accurate engineer’s tri-square, I can shim, or not, after just a few shavings and then proceed accurately. I’m sure this method is quicker, and at least as accurate as having an adjustable fence. Today it just happened to be spot-on.
With the long sides shot square at both ends, and the short sides shot square at one end, I then took off the short side length, directly, from the sum of the bottom board width and a long side thickness (having decided to set the bottom in a groove that was half the thickness of the sides). Taking dimensions directly like this, rather than using a rule to measure and transfer, is often both quicker and more accurate. The short sides were then sawn and shot to perfect length.
Creating the corner mitres was now a case of pulling out my carcass mitre shooting board, honing the 5-1/2’s iron, and planning away the internal corners at 45 degrees.
It’s amazing how quickly, and accurately, this can be done. Pretty soon I had a pair of long and a pair of short sides, ready for gluing…
How I built my carcass mitre shooting board:
-- Design, Build, Inspire. http://www.WOmadeOD.co.uk