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Dust Collection for 12" Delta Planer

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Blog entry by Underdog posted 197 days ago 906 reads 2 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Well it’s kinda clunky and made outa junk ductwork, but the price was right, and it works!

I started with some old pipe from a friends vent hood off their old stove. It had an accumulation of gunk from years of cooking. It was serviceable after scraping and bending flat though.

Then I drew up the 4” high transition from a 13.5” x 2.75” rectangle to a 4” circle. I cut that half pattern out and transferred it to the sheet metal with a center punch and scribe marks.

After the most dangerous part of cutting it out, I used some c-clamps and angle iron as a brake and put the bends in. Then a quick trip to the hardware store re-supplied me with 1/8” pop rivets. A few dozen holes and popped rivets and there you have it.

Oh yeah. I had to cut off the last two inches of the original chute with a zizz wheel and die grinder. I knew I was past the point of no return then. But no biggie. Looks like heck but it sure beats cleaning up after it and sanding all the divots from chips being recycled through the head.

I learned two things.
1) I can do this.
2) Make the top of the transition a little smaller than you think it should be. It has to fit inside the four inch collar.

I found that the part may still be available, but it’s on back order. And I didn’t want to wait. Besides I always did like tinkering and fabricating. And my Dave Gingery books had to be useful for something right?



8 comments so far

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

505 posts in 639 days


#1 posted 197 days ago

Since it wasn’t actually a wood project, I figured this needed to be posted as a blog entry rather than a project, yes?

I made the mistake of posting one of my projects in a forum, and it got totally lost. That’s before I knew to post it as a finished project. This forum is a bit different than a lot of others.

I guess I could always post that project as a project though…

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1055 posts in 736 days


#2 posted 197 days ago

I purchased one for my Foley-Bellsaw 12” planer for $79.00 almost exactly like that and, yes it works super. Chips don’t appear till the catch drum is full.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

View John 's profile

John

208 posts in 2006 days


#3 posted 197 days ago

I have the same Planer with the original Dust Shroud and it’s a real P.I.T.A. I’m sure your’s will work better. I may even be inspired to copy it for my Planer. Good Job.

-- John

View CFrye's profile

CFrye

2568 posts in 444 days


#4 posted 197 days ago

Taking notes here, Underdog. We have the same planer, same mess. Thanks for sharing.

-- God bless, Candy

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3075 posts in 1538 days


#5 posted 197 days ago

That’ real engineering!

well done.

I think they would have let it slide as a wood project.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View Roger's profile

Roger

14175 posts in 1408 days


#6 posted 196 days ago

I’ll bet this works fantastically. Nice engineering.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

505 posts in 639 days


#7 posted 196 days ago

Not my engineering really. Dave Gingery laid it out for me in his book on centrifugal fans. He was quite the genius for simplifying complicated stuff. He could lay this out in about 15 minutes directly on the sheet metal. He was an old sheet metal man, but he could explain stuff really well.

Layout is fairly simple.

You draw a plan view full size, and label the rectangle’s corners clockwise starting from the right bottom, A, B C, D. Add one more, “S” for the seam on the mid point of AD. My rectangle was 13.5” x 2.75”.
Then you label six points equidistant around the perimeter of the circle, counterclockwise starting from the bottom. My circle was 4”. I would make it at least a sixteenth less than that, because I had to taper my 4’ OD collar to make it fit the tabs of my transition.

Decide how tall you want the transition to be, mine was 4”.
Draw an L that will accommodate your longest distance on the plan view, A1, on the horizontal, and the 4” height. Now plot each line length on the horizontal member of the L: A1, A2, A3, S3.

The true distance of each triangle is represented by the hypotenuse formed by the top of the 4” high L, and the points of A1-A3, and S3.

The first triangle you draw out on your pattern (or quicker yet directly on your sheet metal) will have a base of 13.5” and equal sides described by the true length (hypotenuse) of A1.

The next triangle’s base will be at the top of the first triangle and the length will be determined by any of the adjacent the points on the circle. I forget exactly how long that was, but just scribe an arc from the top of the first triangle, then an arc from the right bottom point of the triangle with the true length of A2. At the intersection of those two arc, use a centerpunch to mark it on the sheet metal. In fact at the point of each triangle use a punch, and scribe lines from each point to form your triangles so you can see where to bend..

Follow those same steps for the third triangle, only using the true length of A3. The fourth triangle’s base will be at the “bottom” of the pattern and will be described by the length of the rectangle end AD. The sides of it will be determined by the true length of A3. If you want to make a seam, then that triangle will be bisected in half.

Remember to add tabs to each section so you have room to pop rivet it all together.

You can create your transition in two parts, or keep it all joined together. It’s harder to make all the bends with it all joined, but it’s easier to assemble once you do.

I should probably draw it out in more bold terms, but that’s the gist of it.

Clear as mud?

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

505 posts in 639 days


#8 posted 196 days ago

If you want me to explain this a bit better and provide better drawings, I’ll be happy to do so. Just say the word. Just don’t expect it right away…

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