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Blog series by USCJeff updated 711 days ago 10 parts 18922 reads 24 comments total

Part 1: Block Plane Trial

2282 days ago by USCJeff | 5 comments »

I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I’ve found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25”. I gave ...

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Part 2: Router Plane

2276 days ago by USCJeff | 0 comments »

I’ll keep this brief as I gave a full account in the project section. I wanted to have it within this series as well, however as it is applicable. I’d suggest this to anyone that will not be using this tool on a daily basis. It does a good job leveling out dadoes and grooves. It does a fair job with hinge mortising as well, but I still prefer a laminate router and light chiseling for this application. Check out the project link for construction details and shots.

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Part 3: My favorite Sanding Block

2276 days ago by USCJeff | 9 comments »

I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measure...

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Part 4: Krenov Plane

2262 days ago by USCJeff | 1 comment »

I just finished posting my latest plane attempt. It was another rewarding process. I learn a little more about the mechanics involved with each attempt. One thing I didn’t realize, was that I really got the chance to practice woodworking with extremely strict tolerances. A slightly thin tenon is one thing, a slightly slanted iron ramp is another. I’ve also appreciated the need for sharp cutting edges. I’m learning that I don’t want to stick with the “Scary ...

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Part 5: Catching up from the blogging hiatus

1014 days ago by USCJeff | 0 comments »

I really liked this series of Hand-Made tools that I stopped updating for whatever reason. I enjoy coming back to these and remembering what was in my head when these were done. As a hobbyist, my only training comes through trials and these little notes help the lessons hit home. The biggest thing since my last entry was the acquisition of a lathe. It’s just a Shop Fox mini with an extension, but it gets it done for what I want to do. I do wish I’d opted for an electronic s...

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Part 6: Guess and check method taking some time

1010 days ago by USCJeff | 3 comments »

I posted a shoulder plane I built several days ago and should have held off until giving it a solid trial run. It had issues in more than one spot. The mouth was too open for my tastes. There was also a good bit of chatter because the wedge ended too far up the blade. The wedge also was short on the top side and after tapping it barely protruded. I made a bunch of changes to try to salvage and got close. The sides ended up too skinny after all the extra sanding created by mistakes. The...

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Part 7: Scratch Stocks - I'm sold

1010 days ago by USCJeff | 4 comments »

I’ve been collecting and bookmarking scratch stock ideas for a while now and it never quite made it to the top of the list. I decided to give it a go last night and found them about as simple to make as a hand tool can be. The picture below is pretty self explanatory as to what’s what. Each stock is about 5.5” x 2.5” x 1.25”. I went about as cheap as possible with some construction grade pine. I made two as I read conflicting reviews on how to secure the iro...

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Part 8: Thin-Ripping Saddle

1003 days ago by USCJeff | 2 comments »

I’ll preface all by saying that if there is a way to avoid making this type of cut I normally take it. It’s typically the better option when ripping thin strips to have the strip on the outside of the blade vs. the fence. The reason is that it is tough to support a thin piece between a moving blade and your fence. Kickback is a real issue there. Never the less, sometimes this cut is needed and this is what I use to make it safe. There are three goals in mind. I want to be ...

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Part 9: Scratch Stocks put to use

751 days ago by USCJeff | 0 comments »

I finally got a chance to put the scratch stocks to use in a project versus simply playing with them after they were built. My Serving Board project post yesterday was the first use on a finished project. The pinstripes that form a square about an inch from the edge were all made from a scratch stop with a “V” shaped profile made from some old piece of metal (jointer/planer blade, jigsaw, hacksaw can’t remember but have used them all). The fence kept it all uniform...

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Part 10: Tablesaw Alignment Tool

711 days ago by USCJeff | 0 comments »

I posted a detailed makeup of this project in the project section: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71163 In short, the idea was to make a tool that can check the alignment of the miter slot to a fence as well as the blade to miter slot. I noticed some rip cuts binding recently and suspected alignment problems since I moved the saw around a bunch while reorganizing my shop. I don’t have a dial indicator that works right, so this was the fix. A scrap of MDF, a threaded insert with...

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