In short, the idea was to make a tool that can check the alignment of the miter slot to a fence as well as the blade to miter slot. I noticed some rip cuts binding recently and suspected alignment problems since I moved the saw around a bunch while reorganizing my shop. I don’t have a dial indicator that works right, so this was the fix. A scrap of MDF, a threaded insert with matching bolt, and calipers are all that was needed.

Note, if you don’t have calipers or they are too expensive to use in this manner, they aren’t really required. They work great, but any type of material that will stay put when secured and move will work. I’ve seen setups using a 12 inch ruler, scrap metal rods, and even wood. The concept is to be able to measure both ends and there are a lot of ways to do that.

For the record: The rear of my fence was slanted inwards creating the bind mid cut.

The pinstripes that form a square about an inch from the edge were all made from a scratch stop with a “V” shaped profile made from some old piece of metal (jointer/planer blade, jigsaw, hacksaw can’t remember but have used them all). The fence kept it all uniform. I broke my tiny spiral router bit that came with an inlay kit so my normal tool of choice wasn’t an option without going shopping. In the end, this was faster. I will say that there is a larger chance of error with the scratch stock at least for me. A fence on my Bosch Colt makes it tough to cut off the line. The scratch stock can wonder a bit (especially with the grain) if not careful. To combat this, I simply scored the line with a marking knife and all was well. I’m not completely sold on them, but this won’t be the last I use them. Very fast. Quiet too. I work a lot after the kids are in bed, so that’s a factor for me.

There are three goals in mind. I want to be able to push the piece forward through the cut, avoid having the piece kick back or flip end over end, and keep my fingers away from the action. The saddle does all three very well. It is simple in nature. Cut two boards to match the width and height of the fence and attach them. Develop some type of handle to go on top. Then create a replaceable thin board to push the work piece.

On mine I used dimensional lumber and hardboard. Glue and biscuits are the joinery method. The handle has two screws from the bottom as well as glue. The hardboard is held only by two 1” brads. I should note that you want to make sure if you use metal on this to make sure the blade won’t come into contact with it. The brads in this case are well above the max cutting range. The hardboard can be swapped out as it gets worn or as custom fits are needed. Here are some shots.

Note: In pic 3, I showed an example set up. I normally use the rubber nosed push stick or a pencil to control the cut off if it is in the “no hands” zone. Feather boards never hurt.

The irons are the make or break factor on this one. I show two of several I made in the picture. The chamfer (larger one) iron was a scrap from a card scraper. It is positioned for an aggressive cut which isn’t a great idea, but lets the picture show it a bit better. The tiny beading iron was from a metal cutting jig saw blade. I find they are’t quite wide enough for many of the things you’ll want to shape. I like the card scraper, handsaw, reciprocating saw blade route more so for that reason. It’s very possible to make a profile on the other side of the iron as well to double the options without any more irons to keep around. Easy to shape these. A angle grinder or a cut off tool will get the bulk done. File it to shape and it’s ready.

The biggest thing since my last entry was the acquisition of a lathe. It’s just a Shop Fox mini with an extension, but it gets it done for what I want to do. I do wish I’d opted for an electronic speed control. The pulleys don’t take long, but it still is a chore. Anyways, with the lathe came a whole new dimension of possibilities in tool making. After getting bored to death after dozens of pens and a few grinders, tool handles and the like were next up. I’ll put some links on the bottom to the posted projects. I grinded off the plastic handles of some chisels and files and turned wooden handles that feel better as well as looking cool. I’m going to save the specifics since I’ve skipped a lot of projects since the last entry. The links give the details of each.

The router plane (not entirely an original concept, to be fair) I posted has easily gotten the most attention. I’ve only used it a few times since though. I love the purpleheart chisel handles and round mallet. Not a purple fan, but they are very dense and have held up when used by my abusive habits.

My third shot at a Krenov plane was miles better than the first. Like I said, lessons learned and corrections made.

Other than the chisels, I go to a 6-in-1 screwdriver kit by Rockler most often. Its nothing special and doesn’t require much turning ability, but it is all about contouring to my grip. Not a big deal, but it does give some satisfaction when using it.

Link to first set of Multiple Turnings and misc tools

Link to second set of Multiple Turnings

Chisel Plane (rarely sees use): here

Krenov Plane #3: here

Small Pen style Marking Knife for intricate layouts (dovetails especially): Here

Large and Medium Marking Knifes for Large Scale Layout: Here

And the most current one, a Shoulder Plane: here

I got home and set up. Turning isn’t as easy as I anticipated. Getting the tools sharp was easy, really great sharpener so far. It went through all the grits very fast when I sharpened a shop worth of chisels and planes. The second round of consumables has lasted a while as I only need to touch up now. I decided to turn a simple carvers mallet as a first attempt. Pretty straight forward. The first one (maple) ended up too small to be effective. The second one (purpleheart) was perfect. Well, it was. i was turing some V grooves and things to dress it up a bit. One slight wrist movement and boom, 2 hours were wasted. Doesn’t require much to take some huge chunks off the piece.

In the end, I’m really enjoying it. It’s fast compared to full blown shop projects. A couple hours and you’ve got something to show for it. It’ll get better when I learn how to really use the tools. I’m guessing somewhat at technique and tool angles and such. There seems to be a lot of content on the web. Haven’t gotten much of a chance to sit down and read up on it. Still need that jointer, but I’m having fun.

I’d suggest this to anyone that will not be using this tool on a daily basis. It does a good job leveling out dadoes and grooves. It does a fair job with hinge mortising as well, but I still prefer a laminate router and light chiseling for this application. Check out the project link for construction details and shots.

From top left giong clockwise, Purple Heart and Maple, White Oak and Walnut, Maple on Walnut, and Cherry and Walnut

Finishes Used:

Prep Note: Sanded to 150 and applied wood conditioner for all

~Minwax OB Ebony (as well as – 2:1 Mineral Spirits to Stain Washcoat)
~Minwax OB Sierra (as well as – 2:1 Mineral Spirits to Stain Washcoat)
~General Finish H2O Black Cherry
~Minwax Gel Walnut
~Antique Danish Oil (Watco I think)
~BLO
~Watco Dark Walnut Danish Oil

Impressions:

Both Oil Based Minwax Stains were a little blotchy and seemed to have a dull sheen to them when used in full strength. When I thinned them for a washcoat trial, I really liked the way they looked. It eliminated the blotches and showed off the grain. This was a confirmation on the many tips I’ve read that state multiple thin coats works better than a few thick ones. However, the results were not as nice as the H2O stain discussed below.

I loved the simplicity and result of the H2O General Stain. The black cherry resembled the Minwax Sierra color. The finish was even and didn’t create unwanted contrasts between the grain and wood or the sap and heartwood. Very little odor, amazing recoat time, and not drastically more expensive than the oil based equivalent. It worked well enough that I will definitely give it more trials on other species. Possibly a go-to finish.

The Gel Stain was nice. I didn’t care for the Walnut on White Oak, but it was very even and blended well with the wood. I applied it with the board in a vertical position to test the “no drip/run” claims. Worked as claimed. Still not sold, but I am told it works well on some blotch prone species such as pine. (Note – I applied it to construction grade pine glued up panel and still wasn’t thrilled)

The BLO, did what BLO always does. Mostly clear, and amplifies the natural wood properties. Much faster cure time than tung oils I’ve used in the past.

Both Danish Oils worked well. The Walnut colored oil gradually added color with each coat. This allows for better control of the end result. The clear oil slightly darkened the wood which highlights both the wood and any imperfections.

Pics
General H2O Bl Cherry

Minwax Ebony OB Wash Coat

Comparing Walnut Gel to Real Thing

Sierra Wash

Working with Open Pored Wood (namely Walnut):

• There is no need to use grain filler when using a stain that absorbs into the wood. Rather than using the grain filler, I can flood the board with the stain and use wet/dry sandpaper to make a saw dust / stain mixture. Let this soak in and wipe off excess. Grain is filled.

Other things:

• Wax offers next to no protection compared to Poly. Waxing also requires re-waxing faster than other top coats.
• When use wax, less is best. A cheesecloth “pouch” with a dab of wax distributes it pretty evenly.
• Minwax Polyshades works on top of old stains when refinishing. Takes a coat or two more, but anything to avoid sanding is great in my book.
• Supplies every shop should have on hand: Mineral Spirits, Thinners (laquer, paint, etc. .), B.L.O., Naptha, Turpentine, Tung Oil, and Wood Conditioner to name a few.
• Rubbing finishes almost always provides better results faster vs. brushing.