HHS Wood 2 - Wall Cabinet #2: The face frame (mortise and tenons)

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Blog entry by Tooch posted 10-11-2016 02:43 AM 664 reads 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Building the casework Part 2 of HHS Wood 2 - Wall Cabinet series no next part

Before getting started on the joinery, you will need to square up boards to the dimensions that were given in class. *Note: make sure that your thickness is uniform throughout all pieces and planed to 3/4”

Anytime you are making mortise and tenon joints, it is very important to cut the mortises first and the cut your tenons to fit.

In order to cut the mortises, we will be using the “Go-No-Go” fixture to hold down the workpieces.

Lineup a side piece with the ends aligned within the green “Go” sections. Clamp the workpiece and use a tri-square to transfer 3 of the marks to your piece of stock.

Line up the Domino on each of your three marks by looking through the window.

Your pencil mark should be right under the alignment gauge, and right through the middle triangle on the Domino.

After cutting the three mortises, your piece will look like this.

In order to center the mortise, You will need to flip the piece end over end, retrace the lines, and make a second cut.

Do this operation for each of the two side pieces.

Next we will cut the tenons on the ends of the 3 rails. Start by squaring stock to the measurements given in class. Set the dado blade back to 23/32” (6 blades) and using the Kreg setup bars, set the blade height to 3/8”.

Set the fence to3/4 and cut the shoulders of the tenons first by setting your stock on edge.

Flip each piece and cut all of the shoulders first.

Before cutting the cheeks, Lower the blade height to 1/4”.

Cut all pieces with the face of the stock down on the table. You will need to cut, flip the piece over, and cut again.

Test fit the tenons to make sure they fit. If they are too thick you may need to raise the blade of the table saw slightly (1/64’) and repeat this process.

All pieces should fit together; Check alignment on a pieces. From time to time, the tenons may need to be adjusted or trimmed.

If you notice an overhang on the top or bottom, simply chisel some of the tenon to adjust the fit.

That’s better.

After dry fitting the face frame, the pieces can be glued together and clamped. Once you have finished assembling the face frame, we will go over attaching it in class.

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

5 comments so far

View doubleDD's profile (online now)


5056 posts in 1462 days

#1 posted 10-11-2016 02:59 AM

Great pictures and very informative. Looks like you’re on your way to a gold star.

-- Dave, Downers Grove, Il. -------- When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

16787 posts in 2525 days

#2 posted 10-11-2016 11:13 AM

Nice process shots. The tenons make the project go together nice and square even without and any glue!!


-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

21531 posts in 1757 days

#3 posted 10-11-2016 07:56 PM

Very well written sir.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Roger's profile


19711 posts in 2223 days

#4 posted 10-11-2016 09:14 PM

Very nice

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed.

View hoss12992's profile


3809 posts in 1312 days

#5 posted 10-11-2016 10:31 PM

Very well explained. Great job buddy

-- The Old Rednek Workshop

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