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Tuesday Tool Time #3: Tablesaw review

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Blog entry by A Slice of Wood Workshop posted 10-18-2011 11:59 PM 5136 reads 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: WOOD Magazine review Part 3 of Tuesday Tool Time series Part 4: With no further waiting.....THE DREMEL 3000 »

If you are a beginner woodworker or a woodworker with a small shop then this is a good review for you. Enjoy


-- Tim- http://www.asliceofwoodworkshop.com; Twitter-@asliceofwood; Facebook-http://www.facebook.com/asliceofwood



9 comments so far

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6272 posts in 1553 days


#1 posted 10-19-2011 01:38 AM

Loved the video- I have a couple of ideas for improving your saw…

1. Toss that miter gauge. If it wobbles in the slot, it is useless. I say build yourself a good crosscut sled. There’s lots of good ones here on LJs. It will give you much better accuracy and won’t cost much at all.

2. What size dado set do you use? If you only get 1/2” capacity, you must be using a 5” set? (You said you have a 3” capacity with a 10” blade.) That’s fine except it will be a problem with my next idea…

3. Make a table top to go over your saw. The main reason is that big gap around the blade is killing your cut quality. If you can’t make a zero clearance insert that will be held by those two screws on the edge, you may consider making a sacrificial table top. Most people just buy 3” melamine or something, put it on top and rout new miter slots. That may take away too much of the blade capacity for you. Consider using 1/4 hardboard if you don’t mind drilling some screw holes in the saw’s top to screw the hardboard down with countersunk sheet metal screws. You would do it in three pieces, one on the center and one on each end so your miter slots are still exposed. This will also fix the problem you are having with scraping up that soft aluminum top.

4. You need a better fence. That and the miter gauge will make a HUGE difference. Wood magazine had an issue in the early 90’s where they made a really nice T-Square style fence completely out of wood. If you like I can scan and email it to you. Or, if you can weld, consider making one from an old iron bed frame.

Love the videos- keep em coming…

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View cdhilburn's profile

cdhilburn

95 posts in 1437 days


#2 posted 10-19-2011 01:51 AM

Here is a man who appreciates what he has!!!! Good job on the video!!!

View A Slice of Wood Workshop's profile

A Slice of Wood Workshop

906 posts in 1926 days


#3 posted 10-19-2011 02:01 AM

@stumpy- Holy shnitlze fritz. Man you have just opened up all sorts of ideas for me, haha. I would love the t-square in an e-mail if its not much trouble. I built the table around it and I’m going to be placing a router table in it and making it a big cabinet area (sometime). If you haven’t noticed, I have got like really into the woodworking thing here in the last 6-12 months. And the blade at 90° I think runs to about 3 1/2”, not just 3” (error caught after uploading) so I might try to just make one giant table top, cut the miters and do the t-square and I’d be set. And I use an 8” dado set, but never have seen a reason to go any deeper than 1/2” (yet). Thanks so much for the great tips.

-- Tim- http://www.asliceofwoodworkshop.com; Twitter-@asliceofwood; Facebook-http://www.facebook.com/asliceofwood

View Stevinmarin's profile

Stevinmarin

838 posts in 1828 days


#4 posted 10-19-2011 02:22 AM

I have that exact same saw! Well, an older version. I got it about 10 years ago. That rip fence is kind of wonky, but I just measure it’s distance from the blade each time I cut.

A zero-clearance insert is hard. That plate is much thinner than normal saws. You need something about a 1/16 inch thick!

But for the money, it’s a great saw. It has served me for a long time.

Oh, and my on/off switch broke a long time ago. Now I just have to reach under and poke in there with my finger! Haha!!

-- Entertainment for mere mortal woodworkers. http://www.WoodworkingForMereMortals.com

View A Slice of Wood Workshop's profile

A Slice of Wood Workshop

906 posts in 1926 days


#5 posted 10-19-2011 02:25 AM

@stevinmarin-Haha nice, I hope my button doesn’t break. I like my yellow safety tab.

-- Tim- http://www.asliceofwoodworkshop.com; Twitter-@asliceofwood; Facebook-http://www.facebook.com/asliceofwood

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6272 posts in 1553 days


#6 posted 10-19-2011 02:47 AM

I’ll have to dig through the old issues. I think it was about 20 years ago, but it was a Biesemeyer style fence made entirely out of hardwood. It locked with a single cam handle on the front onto an oar rail. Can your fence rail in the front of the saw be removed or is it part of the saw top? Give me some time to find it…

If I was going to make a sacrificial top I’d use the most stable wood I could get. Baltic Birch plywood would be the top choice, but it’s $80 a sheet. MDF would work except the miter slots may wear too quickly. Melamine (particle board with a nice slippery white laminate on it) will stay flat and wear harder. Stay away from regular plywood unless you plan on screwing it down in several places because it will be hard to keep flat. Use a full 4X8 sheet and lay it across the table you already built so that you have one big flat even surface- like a giant table saw.

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View A Slice of Wood Workshop's profile

A Slice of Wood Workshop

906 posts in 1926 days


#7 posted 10-19-2011 02:50 AM

What about using MDF and then getting some t tracks to place in there?

-- Tim- http://www.asliceofwoodworkshop.com; Twitter-@asliceofwood; Facebook-http://www.facebook.com/asliceofwood

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6272 posts in 1553 days


#8 posted 10-19-2011 02:45 PM

T-Track won’t work because a miter gauge won’t fit in it. And even if you don’t use yours, you’ll want to use other accessories that are made for that size slot. BUT- You can buy metal miter track anyplace you can buy T-Track. That would be the best way to go no matter what material you use for the top. It gets a little pricey but it surely would be nice! (Here it is at woodcraft)

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View Bob Kollman's profile

Bob Kollman

1797 posts in 1944 days


#9 posted 10-22-2011 08:25 AM

Hello Tim, liked your video. If you send me a PM with your address I’ll see if I can
find you some plastic 1/16 thick to make your zero clearance insert. I work at a plastic
shop, I might even have some in stock. But give me a few days and I can probably
find something suitable for you.

-- Bob Kenosha Wi.

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