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New Little Good Pieces blog post: Grooving Planes Part 3 - Wedge and Edge

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Blog entry by TheGravedigger posted 05-23-2011 04:51 PM 864 reads 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

There’s a new Little Good Pieces blog post: Grooving Planes Part 3 – Wedge and Edge. I make the wedges and heat-treat the plane irons. Check it out!

http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2011/05/23/grooving-planes-3-wedge-and-edge-2/

-- Robert - Visit my woodworking blog: http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com



5 comments so far

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 2582 days


#1 posted 05-23-2011 11:34 PM

looking good sofare Robert :-)
when you say 350 degree is that fahrenheit or celcius ?
and if fahrenheit what is it in celcius :-)
if I cought it right you say you started to heat from the tip and goes down …
(excuse saying it like this )........wrong way … you shuold heat from the start of the bladesektion
near the shaft and wait until the colour moves against the tip …. this makes it a lot easyer to control
not burning the tip of … and when heating do it slow by first heating a litle move the toch away a little
and so on … it wuold be easyer to control if you made a little forge to the torch out of a few bricks
stabled up to make a little oven and heating that up pushing the iron closer and closer
before using the torch direcly on the iron ….. you want to heating the iron from inside and out sort of speak

take care
Dennis

Edit: when you quince in oil then move the iron around in it …. to avoid the oil boilling around the iron
then it won´t cool down quick enoff and it will help you to controll any flames from the oil

View TheGravedigger's profile

TheGravedigger

963 posts in 3491 days


#2 posted 05-24-2011 04:12 AM

Sorry Dennis, I keep forgetting that we have an international group here. The temperature is Farenheit. I went back and added it to the post. Thanks for catching that.

The heating with the torch was in the hardening phase, and the goal was to raise the whole front section of the blade to an even cherry red prior to quenching. With an iron that was 1/4” wide and maybe 1/8” thick, the technique used worked very well. If the iron had been any larger, a simple “freehand” heating would not have worked – some sort of forge would have been required. Edge-burning wasn’t really a concern, as it was quite an effort to simply get the metal to critical temperature for quenching.

Heating from the rear and moving the oxidation colors out to the edge would have been appropriate as an alternative to oven-tempering. However, with this small iron, a differential tempering wasn’t needed. The iron won’t need any real shock-absorbent qualities such as an axe would require, and so can be tempered evenly throughout the blade.

-- Robert - Visit my woodworking blog: http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 2582 days


#3 posted 05-24-2011 11:22 PM

thank´s Robert
it was just not clear enoff in the blog for me :-) .... well I allso only have come to R in my ABC of english … LOL

take care
Dennis

View TheGravedigger's profile

TheGravedigger

963 posts in 3491 days


#4 posted 05-25-2011 03:10 AM

Don’t feel bad. I know all 26 letters, and I STILL have trouble, as my explanation shows.

Seriously, don’t hesitate to ask if you have a question. At least you can speak English. I don’t know a single word of Danish, so you’re ahead of the game!

-- Robert - Visit my woodworking blog: http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 2582 days


#5 posted 05-26-2011 09:12 AM

Thank´s Robert :-) at least you don´t have the letters Æ Ø Å to fight with …. LOL
don´t worry I will continue to come up with all the newbee werd questions
someone has to say them loud and be the class-clown :-)
even though all know that the only stupid question is the one thats never said

take care
Dennis

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