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Printing on Wood (Transfer Using Acrylic Polyurethane)

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gel transfer laser printing on wood laserjet print on wood
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38K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  TheCrafsMan  
#1 ·
Printing on Wood (Transfer Using Acrylic Polyurethane)

I wanted to share this method because I've tried many of the available printing-on-wood techniques, including citrus solvent transfer (don't use acetone, by the way) as well as Liquitex and Mod Podge.

Acrylic Poly Finish (aka "acrylic polyurethane", "polycrylic", etc.) is not only cheaper than the above, but you end up with a cleaner image because it is less prone to rub off during the paper-removal stage, it is clearer, and it dries much faster.

As a bonus, you can use the very same acrylic polyurethane to finish the piece. I generally put at least a few coats over the picture.

Here is a video outlining the simple steps.

View on YouTube

 
#7 ·
I just came in from the shop, I tried your method and it works better than I suspected.
I have tried the iron on thing and had little success … but your method even works with color laser prints.

Thank you for posting this demo … I look forward to seeing more in the future … love the puppet.
 
#8 ·
I just came in from the shop, I tried your method and it works better than I suspected.
I have tried the iron on thing and had little success … but your method even works with color laser prints.
Click to expand...
Grumpymike, I'm very glad to hear this!

Out of curiosity, which brand acrylic poly did you use and how long did you give it on drying time?
 
#10 ·
socrbent, I've found that actually the cheapest/thinnest paper you can get works best. Cardstock would be some of the most difficult to use, as would heavy LB paper. Regular ol' copy paper has worked for me.

It's also important to have a fairly smooth surface to apply to, an even spread of acrylic finish, and then to press the paper down against the surface really good.

I've mainly used pine and some poplar and walnut. Haven't done much with oak yet for this, so I'm not sure if it could be a wood thing there. I have applied this to some old barnwood that I selectively sanded, so that you get the design in parts, but some distressing in others, for an aged sign effect.

Hope the next attempt goes better for you!
 
#13 ·
I can see that oak might not be the greatest since it has an open grain. Thank you for posting this. I (luckily) have a laser printer and prior experience with transfers have not been very good, but your method using the water based poly is a real winner. I'll be giving a try very soon.
 
#14 ·
Just what I've been looking for. I've tried various other methods. Though, not the Mod Podge or Liquitex because, like you, I don't like the finished product.
Thank you and keep 'em coming.
 
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#18 ·
TheCrafsMan In answer to your question as to what kind of poly I used, I used the ACE brand like you showed in your video, had a half can on hand … next I will try the Minwax brand of water based poly … I'll get back to you on that.
I applied the laser print right away and lightly smoothed out the bubbles with a J roller; waited about 6 hours before removing the paper.
 
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