All the boards have been cut to size, planed, and tenons cut. I cut 2” tenons on the short rail boards – why, I don’t know, other than adding 4” to the length seemed like a good idea at the time. Now that I’ll be cutting the mortises I’ll pare them down to 1.5”.
Next, will be measuring and cutting the mortises, and the rabbets for the maple ply inserts. One of the nicer pieces of equipment I have is the Hawk router table – the router table shifts 90 degrees, allowing the piece to slide up against the bit, and the router can then adjust up and down by turning a handle. I’ll see if I can cut the mortises with that, with a 1/4” up spiral bit. If not, I’ll build a jig.
I have some poplar for the cleats. I’m thinking If I’m using plywood for the base (more likely than using slats, given my design) I shouldn’t need anything else to strengthen the bottom and make sure I don’t have sag. Anyone out there ever use a “fifth” post for the center, under the bed?
Mistakes so far: In addition to trying to cut tenons that were too long, I did not get a good flat inner surface on one of my headboard post glue ups, so I have a tiny gap that shall be filled with the obligatory glue & sawdust combo. I also cracked (slightly) one of the boards on the foot board post glue up, cranking way too much pressure on the clamp (and there must have been a tiny gap there, too). I also failed to notice a knot that appeared right on the corner of one of the posts, and another that occurred right along the edge of one rail. Both can be hidden, but with a little more foresight I could have made this blemish-free. In cutting the tenons, I again was called up short by a lack of good equipment as I did not have a good flat saw to cut the tenons. I nicked a couple of shoulders on the tenon cuts when my saw slipped on the cuts. I made do with the saws I have, but I need to get a nice Japanese pull saw for next time.
More photos to come.
-- Mangling good wood since 2005.