LumberJocks

Two Mandolins #8: The Neck

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Blog entry by Texcaster posted 01-04-2015 11:43 PM 1158 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 7: Dovetailing Part 8 of Two Mandolins series Part 9: Home Stretch »

The neck blank is cut in a wedge slightly wider than the fingerboard. This allows for large “ears” with no chance of exposing the glue line when cutting the headstock pattern. A face veneer and a backstrap are added. In this case the same species as the fb, Blue Gum. The face veneer adds a bit of strength but the real strength comes with the backstrap.

All Mahogany

My old Ulmia veneer plane is now the roughie and my $7 Hong Kong plane is set fine. ( I have two)

Cutting a vertical shoulder on the face veneer

Quarter sawn Blue Gum I salvaged from the firewood on the day I BBQed my Chistmas roasts. Fingerboard & veneers.

Thicknessed to 2.08mm on a loose backing board. Take only a fart skin thickness, each pass on the thicknesser, when getting this thin. This method allows full use of the bed rollers as well as the feed rollers.

Plane, fence and push stick to dress 2mm x 2mm Solomon Blackwood binding. The thickness of the binding, already fitted at the end, kept failing for the much tighter radius near the nut.

Hot pipes big & small

The Veritas round bottom spokeshave is for finish work only. The throat opening is so small it can’t be set rough. For muy rapido timber removal I still rely on my Stanley 151 that I have ground double convex. Of the two spokes, only the Stanley’s handles are high enough not to bottom out carving the inside of a guitar or mando top / bottom. Some sanding blocks. Thong soles and flooring cork glued to timber or 3mm MDF for slight flex.

!

Violin peg reamer to fit the tuners

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.



5 comments so far

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5183 posts in 2661 days


#1 posted 01-06-2015 05:11 PM

Bill….. I almost missed this step where you are about ready to set the neck….I couldn’t really tell, but did you put a slight “V” on the back of the neck for comfort, and to make it easier on the wrist when playing…? I’m not real sure I know what a back strap is…..Are you talking about making a hole in the end to mount a button for the strap, or mounting the plate to put the loops for the strings on, then a cover plate for that piece….? Then putting in the peg for the strap…? I’m a little confused on this part…...Also, what brand of tuners do you use.?

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

1140 posts in 1140 days


#2 posted 01-06-2015 09:44 PM

Rick, the backstrap is just the veneer on the back of the headstock. I’m working my way through a StewMac order of tuners, tailpieces and strings. Nothing fancy for awhile yet.

I use a pattern of Roger Siminoff’s.

I can’t remember if the large ones are for an electric double bass or a guitar. Maybe both, it’s been awhile.

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5183 posts in 2661 days


#3 posted 01-07-2015 12:09 AM

Ok, Bill….Now I understand the back strap concept….When I built mine, I cut the neck and headstock out of one piece of mahogny, then added the overlay on the peghead, and cut and shaped the headstock in the F style…I believe I used Rosewood for the overlay on the peghead, then shaped it to the F style, with a V point, and curl…..I don’t know what company made my parts, as I bought them from my mentor, who kept them in stock….I think they were made in China….lol….

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

1140 posts in 1140 days


#4 posted 01-07-2015 02:25 PM

Rick, I’ve seen Chinese headstock overlays in Ebony with ” The Gibson” in pearl on line.

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

View AnthonyReed's profile

AnthonyReed

8743 posts in 1907 days


#5 posted 01-08-2015 08:56 PM

Thanks Bill.

-- ~Tony

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