Before I can chronicle more of Moby Plank, which I’m itching to do, I need to get the mesquite legs and stretchers made. In order for me to complete the legs, which will be carved out of 5×5x 36 blocks of mesquite, I need a band saw much bigger than the little hobbiest one I have. I can’t afford a band saw until the project is completed, and I get paid. Hence a conundrum.
After pondering possible possible solutions, and my wife objecting to me selling the kids, I struck upon a Galoot-ish solution that delighted me; to Build a Bow Saw (with apologies to Jack London.) Having a good supply of walnut on hand, and not liking the brittleness of mesquite, layout and sawing began last weekend. I began by using my baby band saw to cut out the arms, and sanded them on a sanding drum chucked in my drill press. 
The next task was to chop the mortises to accept the tenons on either end of the cross beam. I had cleverly taken the time to taper the arms, which really means I succumbed to the siren call of my No.-4. Note: if you decide to build one of these, chop the mortise first and then taper the arms. Much easier. This is the mortise layout, a little hard to see:
I decided to “go Galoot,” no power tools, so I got out my Millers Falls brace and Irwin bits. a 1/4” mortise was required, and I’m a sneak-up-on-it kind of guy, but my smallest bit was 1/4”. That will carry implications you will see later. Note the high-tech depth gauge:

Here’s another thing I thought of after the fact. If you are going to bore the mortise like I did, it might be a good idea to score the centerline with a utility knife in order to get a substantial groove. My bits wandered, and that meant that my mortises were not precisely 1/4” wide. The shoulders of the tenons will cover them and let no one be the wiser, but they weren’t clean like I like them to be. This is the bored tenon (which you might be too, by now…)
Grabbing my crispy Sorby chisel, and a couple of no-so-bad Marples, the mortises cleaned up to a usable level.
The next step was to cut the tenons on the crosspiece. I’ve tried fitting mortises to tenons and tenons to mortises. I’m definitely a “fit the tenon to the mortises” kind of guy. Trial by error. After laying out the tenons using a marking gauge, I made the decision to cut the shoulders of the tenon first. I did this because it seems to promote more consistency from one side of the stock to the other. For me, taking up my awesome Independence Tool carcass saw is better therapy than the best psychiatrist. After cutting the shoulders, cutting the faces of the tenon was very easy using my Independence Tool (yes, I’m gloating) tenon saw. The tenons came out remarkably straight and true, and needed only minor paring (I was sneaking up again) before they indexed snugly into the mortises. Here is a finished tenon:
The fruits of the afternoon’s labor (I can’t figure out how to make the whole picture fit, Sorry!!):
The next step is to plane, scrape, and sand my way to smoothness, bore holes in the arms for handles, prepare the “Spanish Windlass” and get a saw blade. Any suggestions on the last would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for looking!
-- There's no tool like an old tool...


















10 comments so far
Betsy
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2826 posts in 2065 days
#1 posted 1739 days ago
Hey Tex – that looks like it’s going to be a real fine saw. I think it would have taken me much longer than an afternoon though.
What exactly was the wife’s objection to selling those kids for tools? Geez…. :-)
-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!
Eric
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873 posts in 1953 days
#2 posted 1739 days ago
Very nice! I plan on making one of these sometime soonish, since I have no real resawing option outside of my ryoba.
-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com
Quixote
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196 posts in 1807 days
#3 posted 1738 days ago
I’m liking that high tech deth guage.
The possibilities are endless.
Q
-- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch."
ChicoWoodnut
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904 posts in 1984 days
#4 posted 1738 days ago
Thanks for Chronicling. Can’t wait to see it finished.
What are the dimensions? Tools for Working Wood has a 12” Coping saw Blade. they have a little writeup on Bow Saws Here
and you can find the blades here
Jack would be proud.
-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net
Lee A. Jesberger
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6498 posts in 2148 days
#5 posted 1737 days ago
Hi Tex;
That’s a nice looking project you’ve got going.
I made a bow saw a number of years ago when they were featured in a magazine. I have used it, but not so much anymore. (I keep forgetting I have it).
I started a second one with carved “handles” but never did get it done. Maybe seeing your’s will give me some incentive.
Looking real good.
Lee
-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com
Douglas Bordner
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3907 posts in 2233 days
#6 posted 1735 days ago
Highland hardware has frame saw blades…wonder if they might work. Here is a link to the turbo 400, japanese style teeth and a wicked cool name…
-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.
ChicoWoodnut
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904 posts in 1984 days
#7 posted 1735 days ago
I’d like to see a picture of that bad boy!
-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net
Texasgaloot
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464 posts in 1869 days
#8 posted 1729 days ago
Went ahead and ordered the Gramercy blades and pins today. I feel like I’m selling out, because it isn’t completely shop-made. I reckon it won’t be my last, however.
-- There's no tool like an old tool...
ChicoWoodnut
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904 posts in 1984 days
#9 posted 1729 days ago
I don’t think your selling out. Sounds like your getting the kind of blade that might have been readilly available 75 years ago.
Then again, maybe you should consider firing up the furnace and forging your own blade LOL. Then you could be the galloot King!
I can’t wait to see the finished product.
-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net
Ric
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16 posts in 2061 days
#10 posted 1721 days ago
Another source for bow saw blades is band saw blades. Just buy the width and TPI and tooth pattern you want and cut to size. That way you can make a bow saw any size you like. You don’t have to match its size to a predetermined length blade. That way you can build anything from a little coping saw to a two man pit saw.
You can also use finish nails cut to length for the pins.
-- Ric :{) - Appleton, ME - (http://www.crwashburn.com)
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