Bowl from a Board

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Blog series by TerryDowning updated 07-26-2013 04:17 PM 7 parts 9059 reads 2 comments total

Part 1: Getting Started

07-16-2013 08:50 PM by TerryDowning | 0 comments »

If you’re anything like me, you find that turning blanks for larger bowls tend to be expensive. I do use the occasional blow down or removed tree for blanks, but a change of pace is rather nice. I had read of the “Bowl From a Board” concept and seen tutorials on line. I do have some short boards not planned for anything, so I figure why Not? Items required to get started. 1 board suitable in width and length for the desired bowl size. I have an 8” wide oak board...

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Part 2: Balance and True up the stock

07-16-2013 08:56 PM by TerryDowning | 0 comments »

Once the disc and waste block glue up are dry it’s time to mount on the lathe. Remember to check the rotation and clearance by hand before powering up the lathe. If your lathe has adjustable speed, set the speed to its lowest setting. Balancing the stock is nothing more than scraping the edge of the disc until it is concentric.Truing the stock is nothing more than some light facing cuts on the front face of the stock. All ready for the next step.

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Part 3: Cutting the rings

07-16-2013 10:41 PM by TerryDowning | 0 comments »

Once the disc is balanced and true. It’s time to start cutting the rings With the tool rest parallel to the face of the disc, use the parting tool to slice off a ring. I chose to make the rings the sames thickness as the board. You can see in this photo where I started my cuts with my thin parting tool. The angle of the cut needs to be sufficient to provide and adequate gluing surface between the rings. First Layer/ring cut off. I went too fast and wound up burning the woo...

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Part 4: Glue up the Blank

07-16-2013 10:51 PM by TerryDowning | 0 comments »

With all the rings cut, it’s time to glue up the blank, again, I’m using regular titebond II. First a Dry fit. Note the alignment of the centering lines. Also examine the grain. Now is the time to determine the final look of the bowl. Once the glue is set, there is no going back. You only need glue where the layers meet. But don’t be stingy with the glue either. You want a string glue joint here. Remember to align the layers just like your dry fit. All clamped...

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Part 5: Let the shaping begin.

07-19-2013 08:29 PM by TerryDowning | 2 comments »

With the glue dry and clamps removed, the bowl blank and face plate can be re-installed on the lathe. Something I forgot to mention in my previous entry (because I forgot to do it). Take measurements on all four alignment marks when dry fitting and gluing up to get each disc as concentric as possible. Each disc should be equidistant from the next along all alignment marks. I forgot this step and the largest disc was horribly non concentric when shaping Whether you measure or not the bow...

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Part 6: It's time to get this thing finished

07-25-2013 06:51 PM by TerryDowning | 0 comments »

When I left off, I had completed the shaping process and sanding up to 100 Grit. The trouble with Sanding is that the sanding dust often occludes tool marks. Tool marks that will definitely show once the finish is applied. I have learned to take a step prior to any further sanding or finishing that helps show the tool marks so they can be removed before the finish is applied. I dampen a paper towel with mineral spirits (just enough to transfer some mineral spirits to the bowl’s surf...

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Part 7: Signed, Sealed, and Delivered

07-26-2013 04:17 PM by TerryDowning | 0 comments »

Time to finish finishing this bowl. Before parting off make sure the inside of the bowl is finished to your satisfaction. Once parted from the waste block re-mounting to work on the inside gets difficult. Parting the bowl from the waste block is really quite simple. Run a parting tool between the waste block and bottom of the bowl but don’t part all the way off. You don’t want the bowl popping off the lathe at speed and risk damaging all your hard work. I left about 1 1/2...

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