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Treasure Box #2: Raised Panel Bottom

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Blog entry by TerryDowning posted 02-20-2014 09:43 PM 925 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Getting Started Part 2 of Treasure Box series Part 3: Top Panel and mitered dovetails »

I’ve done a couple of raised panels now using hand planes. There are a couple of videos if you google raised panel with hand planes. One form Paul Sellers and one from Stumpy and basically they describe the same process.

Unfortunately, I have discovered a couple of issues with this process that I did not care for.

1. The raised panel itself is not cleanly defined.
2. The rabbet used to go into the sides of a frame or box are more wedge shaped and the panel does not seat claenly in the groove.

Here’s an example from my prototype.

So I decided to try some additional steps and fix these issues.

To start with I laid out the raised panel and scored the lines. I scored the lines with marking knife (Thanks TerryR) and colored in with a pencil so they would show better.

Next, I scored the height of the rabbet edge that will fit into the groove.

Using my Stanley 45 with 1/8 cutter set to 1/16 depth

I broadened and deepened the score lines on the raised panel. Remember to start with the end grain sections first!

Now the raised panel is clearly defined.

The next step is to start raising the panel. For this I’m using my 60 1/2 (My Number 3 sucks and I felt that my larger smooth plane would be too large for this operation.) Cut a steep bevel on the end grain side eventually working down to the Rabbet score line

Now to make sure that the raised panel stays defined I used my skewed MF 07 (Stanley 140 equivalent) with the side removed. You could also use a shoulder plane, or some other rabbet plane just as well here. This allows the point of the blade to ride right up against the raised section while planing away the waste material. Eventually you work the to bevels into each other.

Repeat for the other end grain side. and the 2 long sides. Raised panel mostly complete. It still needs some clean up before finishing, but the hard part is mostly done.

All that remains is to clearly define the rabbet that will slot into the grooves on the box sides.
Back to the 45 I adjusted the fence and depth to approximate a 1/8×1/8 rabbet all around the panel.

Here is the completed panel with the planes used.

In the next entry I’ll use my 45 again to cut the grooves for the box top.

-- - Terry



6 comments so far

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

10053 posts in 1308 days


#1 posted 02-20-2014 10:13 PM

Man, I shoulda done a video of my panel raising experiment with the 78…

Nice process, Terry, certainly a fine result!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

View TerryDowning's profile

TerryDowning

1009 posts in 807 days


#2 posted 02-20-2014 10:19 PM

Man I didn’t even think about my MF 85. That would have made short work of the process.

-- - Terry

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

10053 posts in 1308 days


#3 posted 02-20-2014 10:22 PM

It may not give you the results you’re looking for if they’re cabinet doors, but it sure nails drawer bottoms. Worth a try, I’d say.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

View TerryDowning's profile

TerryDowning

1009 posts in 807 days


#4 posted 02-20-2014 10:34 PM

Next time. This panel is actually the bottom of the box. It will lift the box sides of the surface it’s sitting on creating a shadow line making it look like the box is floating a bit.

-- - Terry

View Mean_Dean's profile

Mean_Dean

1603 posts in 1836 days


#5 posted 02-21-2014 02:01 AM

That second panel looks a thousand times better than the first! Nice job on finding the info on how to do the raised panels with hand planes.

-- Dean

View CampD's profile

CampD

1207 posts in 2175 days


#6 posted 02-21-2014 02:42 AM

Thanks for this just got myself a 45 now I have another project for it.

-- Doug...

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