Evolution of my router planer #7: Version 1.2c (had to tweak it again)

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Blog entry by TZH posted 08-08-2011 06:52 PM 18317 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Version 2.0 Part 7 of Evolution of my router planer series Part 8: Tweakin' it again. Version 2.1 »

Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version ( weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the moveable/adjustable clamp. Then I cut slots in one each of the clamps to hold onto the angle iron brackets the router moves back and forth in. Also, did away with the wing nuts (too cumbersome to hold while trying to tighten down the bolt) and went with a regular nut on the end of the bolt instead. Requires two wrenches, but the results are much better. Finally, decided to try this without the wheels to run along the guide rails. Haven’t used it like this yet, but it sure does slide nice and smooth. If wheels are necessary, I’ll add them later. Anyway, here are some photos explaining my revised design. Hope this helps, and thanks for looking.


-- Where The Spirit In Wood Lives On

5 comments so far

View HalDougherty's profile


1820 posts in 3435 days

#1 posted 08-08-2011 11:51 PM

You never know what you’ll use a tool or jig for till you have one. Now that you’ve got a router sled, just change the router plate for a skill saw plate and you’ve got a panel saw, put in a straight bit and you’ve got a dado jig. It helps to build some fixed stops to hold the frame to make a cut or a dado. You can also search e-bay for some Thomson linear bearings. I have found them as cheep as $20 a set. They make your jig tight and free from slop.

-- Hal, Tennessee

View studie's profile


618 posts in 3345 days

#2 posted 08-09-2011 08:06 AM

Looks good but I still like the 4×4 steel sled rails from your last build. I was thinking of mounting a chain saw in a jig like this to come down to a fairly flat plane & then use a router to finish up. Much of the slabs I get (for free) are way tapered and in need of a lot of work to get flat. Thanks for sharing, let’s all get on the same plane. :)

-- $tudie

View studie's profile


618 posts in 3345 days

#3 posted 08-09-2011 08:09 AM

Oh and this set up may also work with a belt sander for a poor mans wide belt sander!

-- $tudie

View SPalm's profile


5325 posts in 4080 days

#4 posted 08-09-2011 03:11 PM

Proof is in the pudding, eh? Try it out.

This looks great to me, simple and keeps the angle iron in place.

Back in my homebuilt CNC days, I found that black pipe flexed quite a bit. You can always add a 2×2 with a V-cut along the length underneath it to stabilize it (and level it with the table top). Add shims it you want it taller.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View TZH's profile


555 posts in 3339 days

#5 posted 08-09-2011 03:29 PM

Thanks, everyone, for the feedback. Hal, I do plan to use this as a dado jig, and I’m waiting until I can afford it to buy some linear bearings. I do believe that would ultimately be the way to go. For the time being, though, I’m on a really tight budget and will continue to try to use what I have in my shop already in order to keep costs to a minimum (economy, you know).

Studie, I use the 4×4 steel rails for my really big projects. The smaller black pipes in these photos is there for my smaller projects. When you figure out how to use your chainsaw with this jig, please post your process. I am looking for something that will work similar to what you are suggesting. In the meantime, you might want to take a look at this video ( where the guy uses his chainsaw as a planer. I tried this, but ain’t good enough to pull it off so far.

SPalm: So far, the weight of the router on this apparatus hasn’t flexed the black pipe at all. I’m light enough on holding it, too, so that flex hasn’t been a problem (the V-cut idea will be kept in my vault for future use, though, as it may be a solution on longer projects – thanks for the idea). As far as the shims are concerned, I’ve been using stop collars for the size of black pipe to adjust my height along with pipe connectors and stop collars to use as shims to adjust the stop collars themselves, and they’ve worked very well (

Again, thanks, everyone, for the feedback.

-- Where The Spirit In Wood Lives On

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