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|12-24-2010 09:33 AM||
Advice on fixing up a ragged bead - 6 replies
I got a Stanley 45 hand plane and wanted to use it on the sofa table I am working on. I put a single bead about 1/4” above the bottom of the stretchers. Generally, I like the way it looks. However, the bottom edge of the bead is a bit ragged in places. You can see it in the picture below. I am not sure if it is some kind of tear out...
|10-12-2010 12:43 AM||
Wood Selection - Walnut - 5 replies
I am getting ready to build a sofa table. The legs and apron will be Walnut. I purchased Claro Walnut for the legs but to save money I purchased Eastern walnut for the apron. When I got the wood home and started milling it,I noticed that the Claro walnut was darker and had a slight green tinge to it. The eastern walnut was lighter in color and h...
|10-06-2010 09:35 PM||
Insects - 9 replies
I found a piece of wood, that I believe is California Bay Laurel, by the side of the road and have been using it for some turning projects. In a bowl I recently turned from it, I noticed a small insect hole. The hole is about 1/32 of an inch in diameter and there is only one hole visible in the bowl. I am assuming the hole serves as an entry to ...
|09-30-2010 09:56 PM||
Question about rust - 14 replies
Recently I bought a hand plane on ebay and it had some very light rust. The rust does NOT interfere with the use of the plane. Is it important to remove the rust using naval jelly or some other alternative? Is there a downside to leaving the rust alone? Will it spread, get worse, etc. Thanks. Tom
|08-16-2010 10:24 PM||
Flattening end grain - 27 replies
I am completing an end grain cutting board. After the final glue up I needed to remove some dried glue squeeze out and flatten out the board. It was very difficult but it is over now. However, I may never make another end-grain anything again! I am just wondering if there is a better way. I used three different planes to start. I started with...
|03-06-2010 09:41 AM||
Restoring a woodworking vise - 2 replies
I just bought a used quick release woodworking vise. The biggest problem I see is some rust on thescrew. I am thinking of removing the rust with a wire brush. What should I do to protect the screwfrom more rust? Should I use some type of oil or grease? It seems like this would keep the rust fromreturning, but I am afraid it will contaminate thin...
|02-16-2010 03:07 AM||
Planing vs. Scraping vs. Sanding - 14 replies
I am working on a Cherry Display Case. The case is mostly done now and I am thinking aboutfinishing. My goal is to plane all of the surfaces with a smoothing plane and touch up witha card scraper. I hope not to sand at all. I like the look that a plane leaves on the woodand don’t want to mess that up with sanding. I am not opposed to doing...
|02-11-2010 12:46 AM||
Woodworking Vise - 3 replies
When I first built my workbench, I installed an engineer’s bench vise on it. Later, I added woodenjaw protectors. About six months ago I bought an INEXPENSIVE 7” woodworking vise. The size isabout right, but it racks terribly. I have used more expensive woodworking vises that do not racknearly as much as this one does. I am willin...
|02-03-2010 10:34 PM||
Importance of good chipbreaker. - 6 replies
I recently purchased a Groz #4 smoothing plane. I flattened the sole and did some workhoning the chip breaker to ensure no gap between the back of the blade and the leadingedge of the breaker. It worked pretty well but I had some problem with chattering. Next, I replaced the blade with a Hock replacement. This blade is thicker than the origin...
|11-15-2009 08:13 PM||
Stanley 93 Rabbet Plane - 3 replies
I am shopping around for a Stanley 93 Rabbet plane. I plan to buy online and have found it at Woodcraft for about $125. Can you suggest any other sites that typically have good prices on hand tools. Thanks. Tom
|10-09-2009 09:19 PM||
Display Case with Glass Front - 4 replies
I am trying to design a display case to hold a baseball and bat. It will be about 3’ long, 8” high and about 5” deep. The front of the display case will be hingedwith glass captured in something like a rail/stile door frame. I am trying to decidehow to capture the glass in the frame. One option is to put a slot in the rails and...
|10-05-2009 02:07 AM||
Finishing Question - 7 replies
I am applying finish to a nightstand I built. It is made of white oak. I stained it and let it dryand now I am trying to apply Waterlox. When I applied the waterlox on the bottom of thebottom shelf, I noticed a big hand print. When I cleaned the surface I didn’t see it. Once I saw it I wiped the waterlox in the vicinity of the print. What ...
|09-24-2009 07:22 PM||
Router Base Plates - 9 replies
I am putting together a router table. Most that I see attach the router to a base plate andthe base plate rests in a cutout. Often there are plate levelers to ensure the base plateis flush to the surface. I don’t understand the purpose of the router plate. Is it meant as a simple way of gainingaccess to the router for changing bits and ...
|09-06-2009 09:09 AM||
Tear out problems in white oak - 16 replies
I am building a night stand from white oak. The top is made from several quarter sawn boards.A couple of the boards had some minor tear out after thickness planing. I went ahead and glued them together. I have tried sanding out the tear out but it is too deep for my ROS. I have tried cleaning it up with a hand plane (Bailey block plane – s...
|07-24-2009 10:24 PM||
I have a JET Benchtop 8” Jointer/Planer combination machine. The knivesare supported by set screws to adjust the height and are spring loaded.There are six gyb screws that hold the blade in the cutter head. I am a bit confused as to why there are both set screws and springs. Itseems to me that the springs just complicate knife setting o...
|06-05-2009 11:28 PM||
Plunge Router Precision - 7 replies
I have a plunge router I use to cut mortises. I have noticed that there is some “wobble” in the plunge mechanism so that sometimes the bit does not go straight down. If I push a little more on one handle than the other, the bit will veer off the vertical a bit. Thus, my mortise might not end up exactly where I want it. It is generall...
|05-26-2009 07:54 PM||
Jointer/Planer Blades - 2 replies
About six months ago I purchased a JET Benchtop 8” Planer/Jointer combination.Recently the blades seem to be dulling and so I purchased a new set of blades.I have two questions: 1. Do planer and jointer blades typically come sharpened or do the blades need to be sharpened (somehow) before use? I ask because the blades do not feel ...
|02-23-2009 09:36 AM||
Zero clearance throat plate problem - 7 replies
I made a new zero clearance throat plate for my Craftsman bench top table sawand am having some problems with it. The first one I made from 3/4” oak and ithas always worked fine. I made the new one from 3/8” phenolic sheet. It stands up on four allen screws I threaded into the phenolic. I inserted a wire brad into the back of the ...