Cuttingboard #1: My first cuttingboard

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Blog entry by Sux posted 01-24-2010 10:26 PM 1355 reads 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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After reading all the great post on LumberJocks and watching the Wood Whisperer’s video about making a cutting board, I decided to try my hand at it. I went to a local lumber yard and picked up some of their discounted stock. I got three 1×6 (approx 9 feet long) board each of Maple, Walnut and Cherry. After seeing a few of the cutting boards posted on here I had an idea of what I wanted so started cutting and gluing. Since I don’t have a table saw, I used a radial arm saw to rip the boards to width and length. It turned out that each of the different woods had some slight variations in their width (this is what you get when you buy from the discount pile) and adding a little slop from my cuts this turned out to become an issue in the end result. I now have some significant gaps in my cutting board and need to find a way to fill them to prevent any problems using them for food prep. Here are a few pictures to give an idea. Any comments or suggestions on solving the gap problem would be very welcome and appreciated.

From Woodworking

From Woodworking

From Woodworking

Right now I’m thinking about using some Elmer’s Wood Filler to take care of the gaps but I’m not sure this is the right method. Any ideas?

-- . . . .*̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̴̡ı̴̴̡ ̡̡͡|̲̲̲͡͡͡ ̲▫̲͡ ̲̲̲͡͡π̲̲͡͡ ̲̲͡▫̲̲͡͡ ̲|̡̡̡ ̡ ̴̡ı̴̡̡ *̡͌*̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̡ . . . . Sux

9 comments so far

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3332 days

#1 posted 01-24-2010 11:12 PM

You could take a router with a “V” bit and rout a channel in all the seams and glue in a square stringing with one edge into the v cut and then plane off the excess after the glue drys. I’m not sure about this solution, so you might want to ask someone with more cutting board experience before trying it. You could also rout wider flat bottomed grooves and inlay larger dimensioned stringing or inlay. I would do the routing first and size the inlay to the groove afterward.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View MOJOE's profile


548 posts in 3266 days

#2 posted 01-24-2010 11:13 PM

A v-groove as mentioned above, but fill the groove with thin black epoxy. once dry, a card scraper could be used to remove the excess….....maybe

-- Measuring twice and cutting once only works if you read the tape correctly!

View a1Jim's profile


117091 posts in 3575 days

#3 posted 01-25-2010 12:09 AM

I third the epoxy idea

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Sux's profile


12 posts in 3047 days

#4 posted 01-25-2010 12:14 AM

Thanks for the responses. I’m not sure about routing the a v-groove, this is pretty small (about 1/64th across) and I think I would end up causing more damage than good. I like the idea of filling it with epoxy and I may even be able to make a thin little strip to use as a shim then sand off the excess. I’m going to hold off until tomorrow to do anything because I usually get in trouble when I rush to fix stuff. Thanks again for the suggestions.

-- . . . .*̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̴̡ı̴̴̡ ̡̡͡|̲̲̲͡͡͡ ̲▫̲͡ ̲̲̲͡͡π̲̲͡͡ ̲̲͡▫̲̲͡͡ ̲|̡̡̡ ̡ ̴̡ı̴̡̡ *̡͌*̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̡ . . . . Sux

View Russ's profile


142 posts in 3196 days

#5 posted 01-25-2010 12:43 AM

mix epoxy with fine sawdust from sanding them either by hand or with electrical and fill the gaps, you can also use small slivers of the same wood to fill the gap but will probably use some epoxy sawdust mix to finish.

-- Happiness is being covered in sawdust

View jlsmith5963's profile


297 posts in 3346 days

#6 posted 01-25-2010 01:33 AM

A twist on the epoxy idea:

Instead of trying to hide the problem or match up a groove so perfectly that it disappears, you could cut a series of ‘random’ shallow kerf cuts (or v-grooves). One of these cuts would naturally go right down the joint where the gap is. The end result would be a kind of ‘pick up sticks’ pattern of cuts across the board. You can then either fill these cuts with epoxy or you could fill them as Stefang suggested. You would end up with a sort of modern twist on a classic end grain cutting board and nobody would be the wiser.

-- criticism: the art of analyzing and evaluating the quality of an artistic work...

View Rick  Dennington's profile (online now)

Rick Dennington

5859 posts in 3192 days

#7 posted 01-25-2010 02:03 AM

Greetings Jim:........... Sorry…. but you were only the “second” to the apoxy idea….... not third !!.... LOL LOL…later. I have no statement, so I’ll let the experts handle this one. Ya’ll keep on keeping on…... later.

-- " At my age, happy hour is a crap and a nap".....

View Sux's profile


12 posts in 3047 days

#8 posted 01-25-2010 02:52 AM

All of these ideas are wonderful and I truly appreciate the feedback from everyone. I think my best bet to get something in there at the moment to seal it up is to use some shavings the scraps (I’ll probably just go to town on it with the block plane just to get a feel for how it works) then mix sawdust with the epoxy, coat the shavings and push them in the gap. Once it dries, I’ll sand it down. I don’t think I can get a shavings from the power saw this thin… well that’s not true, I really just want an opportunity to play with the plane. I have always had these tools available to me but I never really took an interest in woodworking until very recently and I like the idea of using manual tools more than power tools unless the power can save me a lot of time.

Just a side note: I’m blown away by this site and the feedback I have received in such a short period of time. You guys are really great.

-- . . . .*̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̴̡ı̴̴̡ ̡̡͡|̲̲̲͡͡͡ ̲▫̲͡ ̲̲̲͡͡π̲̲͡͡ ̲̲͡▫̲̲͡͡ ̲|̡̡̡ ̡ ̴̡ı̴̡̡ *̡͌*̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̡ . . . . Sux

View Karson's profile


35120 posts in 4398 days

#9 posted 01-30-2010 06:10 AM

Good luck on the repairs.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

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