‘Okay,’ you might ask, ‘Where has this guy been since posting this last February?’:
—Nothing permanently assembled yet. Now to work on tool layouts, so there’s more to come!
The key to that post was it’s ending: Nothing assembled… and that’s where we’ll focus now. The ‘tool panels’ created in the last pair of installments are on the doors known as CherryR and CherryL. And now I’m calling them sub panels because they’re more than frames at this point. The frames are assembled with through dovetails at the bottom corners and sliding dovetailed at the top. Some pics to refresh our collective memory:
And that last picture above, you might recall, was dark and ratty on purpose… I wasn’t happy with the sliding dovetail on one of the pair of sub panels and knew a day of reckoning would come. Well, that’s what we’ll deal with first. The dovetail (DT) groove was too wide at the neck of the joint for the tongue board. Strange terminology? Here’s the key, followed by the offensive joint.
I started the day with this plan: Cut a pair of shims about 4” long to lay inside the angled edge of the groove, filling the void before glue-up. Why that approach? Because the stiles of each frame have way too much labor invested just to redo for a tighter DT joint. Cutting and smoothing these pieces was going to be chore too, but it was the plan.
Then, I had one of those (increasingly rare!) “Why didn’t I think of this sooner?” moments: Simply make a new rail (horizontal) piece out of thicker stock, re-cut tongues on each end, and fill the oversize grooves that way? It’s The Revelation! So, cut and plane and smooth a new board, then work the tongues w/ the #444. (And a Shout Out to DanK for the idea to add material to the bevel fence to facilitate ‘smaller depth’ tongue cutting!)
The result was a dramatically improved joint:
Glue-up of the through dovetails went smoothly with Titebond 2 and flux brush and square:
After a day for the glue to cure, it was time to smooth the through-dovetails w/ the Stanley #9 (I really love that plane as a smoother!)
To mount the sub panels to the doors, at least initially, I decided to remove the doors from the Not Wall Hung and bring them to the bench for panel fitting.
Holes were drilled at the corners, through poplar T&G backboards that you’ll recall are fully housed via stopped dadoes. The holes were the reamed for screw heads.
I attached the sub panels to the doors (no pictures of that), then re-hung the doors, Noticed the MF #61A drill-driver in the open tool chest and tried it on the hing screws… I’ve had the tool for many years, even bought the hex adapter for it from Lee Valley, but never used it until now. The screws were sent home so fast, it was incredible! Going to reach for this more often now, I think.
And so, bottom line, the sub panels are now installed on the doors of the Not Wall Hung! Without further adieu, then:
The floor is clear of the sub panels for the first time since February, a very good thing! And now (I promise!) tool holders can be invented to pull a goodly number of hand tools into more accessible locations within the Not Wall Hung. That’s already underway, so hopefully it won’t be long until there’s another installment OR an actual project post for this cabinet. Until then, thanks for looking and ‘bye for now!
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --