Started work on the drawers over the weekend, when the center slides came in from an internet order placed last week. Haven’t dealt with slides before, so there’s some apprehension. Picked out what I needed at The Home Depot, but their stock was depleted. Hence the mail order. Anyway, I have the hardware and know there’s a 1/4”clearance needed for each slide. But enough talk, how about action?
I marked a piece of pine stock –bought as buffet casework- as drawer fronts by tracing the drawer frame right onto the board. With a little handplane work on ends and edges, each of them was a pretty good fit to the buffet.
Pulled oak stock from my ‘drawer sides salvage stock,’ six pieces that’ll do nicely.
Each piece had to be cut to the proper length, and I did that at the RAS. Then the dados had to be cut; that was done with the #238, ensuring the 1/4” clearance was in place for the center slide.
Then it was time to start the half-blind dovetail process for each of the drawers. Doing these is likely my favorite bench activity, beginning with set-up of the #198 Gauge (told you I loved this tool). Once I knew those overall limits, I could lay out the dovetails. Not having mastered the use of dividers for this, I’ve settled into the habit of dovetail marking via chisel:
It works for me! And once those were marked, it was a simple matter of cutting tails on three pairs of drawer sides with the Disston gent’s saw, removing waste with the Disston 10B coping saw and chiseling out whatever was left with the Stanely SW #720 re-issues.
When all tails were cut, it was onto marking and cutting of each drawer front.
First one wasn’t bad (some rust in the ole’ skillset):
Second and third ones benefitted from having the tails marked with knife vs pencil.
End of the day and I had two drawer fronts mated with their sides, about 90 minutes invested in this subactivity thus far. Seeing drawers stuck in place gave me a good feeling this would all pull together eventually!
By the end of the next shop session, all three drawer sets were done, to a near-complete install of 3/4” drawer backs that are dado’d into the sides (side dadoes cut at RAS):
Because the center drawer slides anchor through the bottom and into the drawer backs from underneath, the backs were cut flush with the top of the drawer sides. Bottoms were made from a piece of 1/4” plywood I found along the back wall of the shop. Old stuff, very nice stuff.
Some glue up action took place over the next couple days.
A bunch of fitting and fettling to get each of them working the way I wanted them too, work that blew through the guesstimated time. Install of the slides was straightforward.
But again, fitting drawers is not a fave activity. Guess it’d be better using false fronts that screw into the drawers. Maybe next time. But I learned a lot (and I’m talking about drawer installation, not estimating).
I will say, after being motivated to try it based on a video Red posted, it’s a damn fine activity to trim drawer sides with the Stanley #9! Why? More area in front of the iron to register against the piece, ensuring a flat run. Worked awesome.
And as you can see in that last close up, I added a bead to the bottom edge of each drawer with the #66.
All was fit and glued up with drawer bottoms and backs, and drawers were officially done. Oh, the knobs are ‘legacy’ and will be painted / installed later. Let’s call this ‘done’ for now, so until next time, Thanks for Looking!
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --