Simple enough here, right? Duplicate the look and feel of the aprons on the Farmhouse Table, but at the size and scale suited to a buffet with drawers.
Whereas the table needed 2×4s for apron material, a buffet needs more height for drawers but less width of stock overall. I took the biggest clue from the squared-off stock at the top of the turned legs; it was that dimension setting the height of the casework and nothing else. So with a 3/4” undercap taken into account, I needed good 1×8 stock. Off to the lumberyard, then!
Okay, maybe I’m not that far out in the sticks. But I did have to shop for material!
Anyway, had to do a slight rip of the 1x stock at the table saw. Because both edges will either butt up to the table top or be sandwiched to the undercap, the boards were good ‘straight from the saw.’ For the mortises on each leg, I used the Steel City hollow chisel mortiser.
And the RAS to cut tenons on the 1×8 apron material, a couple of which needed tweeking with the #92 shoulder plane.
The front of the table needs some kind of framework that gets me three drawers in this piece. And while I wasn’t completely sure of the entire subassembly, I did know the solution would involve a couple dovetail keys at the tops of each front leg. It’s something also picked up from Robert Wearing, and I used it the first time ever (and last time, as it figures) on the Mission Style Nightstand project.
A measurement of the back apron reveal told me the dimension of the front key board, less dovetails of course. Some cutting at the bench and on the legs got me this:
From there it was a relatively simple series of steps to add three defined outlines for the drawers, keeping these frames set back from the fronts of the legs as the aprons are. I think the drawers will be slightly inset from there, but that’s getting just a bit ahead of myself. Here’s the assembly I came up with, and it fits nicely. Oh, and ignore the top that’s in the picture, that’s another installment.
I’ll be able to drive a few screws into the top, through the key board, making everything nice and tight. I will not be adding screws to the length of the back side, to allow for movement across the grain of the top. The ends will be screwed via elongated holes in ‘screwstrips’ fastened to the side aprons. In other words, fixed in place on three sides. With a top that’s 1 1/2” thick, it should work fine. Here’s a pic of said ‘strip’ on the buffett table as it was being glued in place:
There’s also the under strip visible on that end cap pic!
So take a look again at the image of the table with frame in place. It was clamped in place, and will stay t hat way until it’s all pieced together with lower frame, shelf and top. Now to work those tops for each of these frames, and design that lower shelf… How those things come together are topics for future installments, so until then thanks for looking!
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --