Walked into the shop this AM to this:
And I want to get to a reasonable facsimile of this:
So setting the depth of each drawer is the action of the day. I have them marked as being 6”, so part of me says just jump in and start making drawers. The more practical side is telling me to do a something I hardly, if ever, do: Mock up the drawers. Why do that, you ask? Well, as has been discussed in this series, the chest is not square. But cutting at least the drawer bottoms I can be assured that what I build fits well and can slide freely from front to back. And, I’ve got a stack of 1/2” plywood that is perfect for this kind of thing. So let’s cut wood, first to rip some of the aforementioned material to width.
I traced a slight correction to be made to the back right side, then surveyed the situation. Not good.
The sliding shelf is extended fully, and with the bottom drawer in the ‘locked’ position, there’s a gap. That’s not what I had in mind at all. The idea of the shelf is to isolate the lower section from dust / debris when working with items in the drawers. So another workaround is in the offing. How about a wider bottom drawer?
I ripped a new pattern piece and moved on with the next couple drawers by marking left vs. right corners and tailoring each to fit as required. Note in the second picture below that a sanding disc makes a nice adjuster for cut angles at the RAS.
At the top ‘drawer,’ the fit was good but got way too snug at the back left side.
I figured the runner was to blame, so adjusted that piece, put it back in place, and had a good fit without fiddling with the drawer blank at all.
So I’ll have a bottom drawer with character, and overall a bank of drawers that should look smokin’ hot. :-)
One final thing to mock up was the height of the top drawer. Why is it a concern? Well, the plan is to have the top drawer extend higher than the side walls of the chest because it can. How high? Some testing will tell me if the plan is “too high.” So I ripped some ply scrap from the first shelf attempt and had a top drawer that was ‘no problem’ on height.
Well, not perfect.
The back board of the ‘lid’ is actually a thicker board than what makes up the original chest. So when the chest lid is closed on a drawer pressed to the ‘locked’ position, it doesn’t close effectively. What does that mean? I think when the top drawer is built, the drawer back needs to be inset about a quarter inch from the bottom so the top closes.
So again, thanks for coming along on what must seem to be a never ending project!
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive