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|07-30-2012 02:55 PM||
Wood dowels at LowDepot - 6 replies
I’m building a Roubo bench and must soon begin to think about my drawbored mortise-and-tenon joints. For simplicity sake I will probably make my drawbore pegs from dowels rather than riving and shaping my own. A reference book suggests using white oak dowels for drawbore pegs. The dowels sold at places like Lowest and Home Depot are list...
|07-27-2012 09:51 PM||
Drawbore pegs: make or buy? - 2 replies
If you have made drawbored joints (perhaps for a Roubo bench), what have you used for the pegs? Did you buy dowels or make your own? What types of wood have you had success with?
|07-24-2012 05:15 PM||
An article about how the U.S. is losing its craftsmanship: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/22/business/what-happened-to-the-craftsmanship-spirit-essay.html?_r=2&pagewanted=all Sorry if this is a duplicate post.
|07-21-2012 10:26 PM||
Block plane with chip missing behind throat - 9 replies
I bought a 60 1/2 block plane that has a piece missing behind the throat. Will this affect the performance of the plane significantly?
|07-21-2012 08:41 PM||
Attaching handle to Staney 720 socket chisel - 5 replies
I found a 1” Stanley 720 paring chisel at an antique mall while on vacation (what else would one do on vacation but visit antique malls and search for old hand tools?). The handle is sound and shows little wear. The blade looks bad in the picture, but the discoloration is on the surface and there is no pitting. The only problem is that t...
|07-11-2012 02:08 PM||
Clamps: how tight? - 21 replies
When I use clamps to hold boards together while glue dries, should I snug up the clamps just enough to keep the boards from sliding around, or should I tighten the clamps until the skin on my palm rips off and the blood vessels in my forehead burst? (Hyperbole, obviously—but a serious question.)
|07-10-2012 09:25 PM||
Blade for table saw and circular saw - 15 replies
Can anyone recommend a good brand and model of a 10” table saw blade, preferably one sold at Home Depot or Lowes? Also, can anyone recommend a good brand and model of a 7 1/4” circular saw blade, sold at the same places? Thanks. And thanks.
|07-10-2012 08:16 PM||
Reinforcing small gaps with more glue? - 8 replies
I’m building a Roubo bench, with a top made of 4.5-inch-wide yellow pine boards, face-glued to each other. I did a decent job flattening and gluing the boards, but there still are a few gaps between some of the boards, up to 0.01” across and 1.5” deep. Can I fill in those gaps with woodworking glue, epoxy, or other adhesi...
|06-30-2012 08:51 PM||
Help with old chisel - 4 replies
I bought an old chisel at an antique mall, intending to use as a paring chisel. One one side it appears to have “DUCTILE // ST STEEL” (on two lines), and the other side has these hallmarks or maker’s marks: The marks appear to be a Maltese Cross, a long arrow, and a shorter, double-headed arrow-like symbol—o...
|06-24-2012 10:18 PM||
Mallet for mortising chisel? - 4 replies
What type of mallet is best for use with a mortising chisel? Is a standard wooden carpenter’s or carver’s mallet sufficient, or is a heavier mallet required?
|06-23-2012 04:54 PM||
Glueing workbench top: maximum gap? - 5 replies
I’m starting to glue the assemblies that will make up the top of my Roubo bench. Each assembly is made up of 4 yellow pine boards. I’m trying to flatten the faces that I will glue together (each face is about 5 in. x 8 ft) and it’s proving to be more difficult than I thought. My current maximum-gap size is about 0.004”. ...
|06-21-2012 04:25 PM||
Shortening a long miter saw to make a tenon saw? - 3 replies
Crazy idea about backsaws: I come across more old miter saws that are about 22” inches long than I do tenon saws that are about 14” long. Apart from the questions of collectibility, TPI, and rip-vs-crosscut teeth, is there any reason why I couldn’t buy an old miter saw and cut it down to about 14” to use as a tenon saw?
|06-18-2012 05:34 PM||
White oak for drawboring pegs - 3 replies
Planning ahead for when I start assembling my Roubo bench later this summer: Chris Schwarz recommends white oak dowels for drawboring. I’ve never seen white oak dowels labeled as such at any of the big box stores or my local Woodcraft. Anybody know of a source? I suppose I could make some, but I’m reluctant to spent Lie-Nielsen...
|06-18-2012 04:02 PM||
Why $22? - 9 replies
I see a lot of hand tools at antique malls priced at $22. Is there a reason for this? Something to do with numerology, astrology, eastern religions, or Las Vegas?
|06-18-2012 03:57 PM||
Dog holes: how close to front of bench? - 9 replies
I’m thinking about installing a Veritas Quick-Release Sliding Tail Vise some day to the Roubo bench I’m building. The instructions say the bench dog holes should be drilled 1” (on center) from the front edge of the bench. That leaves only 5/8” of wood between the edge of the bench and the edge of the holes. DoesnR...
|06-14-2012 03:01 PM||
Handsaw: 26" too long for woodworking? - 4 replies
I’ve read some comments recently that 26”, a fairly common length for old hand saws, is a bit too long for a saw used for making furniture (the 26” saws are common because they were used in construction). Has anyone found that to be the case, or is 26” okay for a saw used for ripping and/or crosscutting?
|06-12-2012 06:53 PM||
Gramercy Tools holdfasts: too small? - 5 replies
Has anyone used the Gramercy Tools holdfasts? With a reach of only 6.5”, I wonder if they might be too small. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/indextool.mvc?prodid=MS-HOLDFAST.XX
|06-12-2012 06:49 PM||
There’s a good-looking Type 11 jointer plane available at what seems like a good price at etsy.com: http://www.etsy.com/listing/101936999/antique-jointer-plane-vintage-carpenters My only concern might be the length of the blade, but the rest of it seems to be in good shape. I already have a WWII-era jointer that I’ve tuned and...
|06-11-2012 10:43 PM||
Roubo bench from SYP with drawbored joints? - 5 replies
Has anyone here (successfully) made a Roubo bench from southern yellow pine with drawbored joints? I’m gluing the top and will soon start working on the mortises, which means that drawboring is in my near future. My questions are: (1) what offset did you use for the hole in the tenon, and (2) what type of wood did you use for the pegs?
|06-07-2012 10:39 PM||
Assume you have two boards that have flat surfaces that you wish to glue together. You can either machine-sand the boards with 180-grid sandpaper, or plane them with a well-tuned hand plane. Which surface is better for gluing, the one with a little “tooth” from the sandpaper or the one that is very smooth?