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5K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  Jim Jakosh 
#1 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.



Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.






The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!






I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
 

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#2 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Good info Thx for sharing. I have same bandsaw while I do not have problem with the pully bearings yet I'll keep this in the memory banks. I do have to replace the upper and lower guide bearings along with thrust bearings. I've been looking for shielded ones instead. ( Why Grizzly didn't do this I'll never understand ). I'll look at website you mentioned. I'm thinking of upgrading to the CARTER kit but not so sure if 170.00 is a good value… hmmmmm any thoughts on this?
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Hi Ken. I think the setup Grizzly has is okay. I bought some guide bearings from them a few years back and they were shielded. Maybe they changed their standards. In that area you definitely need to keep out the dust. The one thing that needs improvement is the back guide that runs on the side of the bearing, instead of the front surface of the bearing. I have looked at that many time to make a change in there but room is scarce!!
I watched a video on replacing these bearing on the wheel and the guy had ordered bearings from Grizzly and they were open on one side so he used some other ones.

Carter sells a single top guide for narrow blades. My friend Dick has one on his saw and he swears by it- no bottom guide at all! I don't understand it, but he love it.

We had Carter guides on some of the bandsaws at school and their retrofit was a nightmare . I could not get at some of the screws at all!! It might have been the way the saw was originally set up but that left a bad taste in my mouth for Carter guides.

My 2 cents worth.

Cheers, Jim
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Thanks for the pictorial, Jim.

I wish I had room for a metal working lathe. So many time it would have come in handy.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Hi Lew. Without that metal lathe, I could not do 3/4 of the stuff I do!! I use it and Grizz bandsaw every day!!

Cheers, Jim
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Good repair job Jim. Very detailed the way you took us thru it. I have a Rikon with 2 extra bearings for some reason but I'll keep Fastenal in my records for future use. I know if you don't keep them clean the bearings can go fast, especially with green wood.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Good that you found it Jim & could fix it.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Jim,

Thank you… this is good to know… Sounds like one should replace the bearing every so many years, etc. (??)

I got tired of replacing the guide bearings… I thought the Carter stuff was WAY OVER PRICED… I got the COOL BLOCKS… Love them… Easy to use… Much quieter…

Merry Christmas & Happy Ne Year!
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Now that's fixing it yourself.
Good job Jim.
$2.50 for those bearings is pretty reasonable.
I'm going to have to remember that tip.
Thanks for sharing the pictures.
It may come in handy someday.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Good fixin there Jim.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Thx jim, appreciate the info. I missed stated about the bearings. There sheilded, what I meant to say is why Grizzly didn't used sealed bearings. Needed more coffee, I bought 6 sheilded bearings yesterday for 36.54 from a company called Sunset bearings. Big improvement, still thinking of the Carter or maybe cool blocks. Heck I've been think of the Laguna Band saw as well… LOL but that's because as Blondie says I'm addicted to woodworking. But I'm home safe and not out causing trouble, smile.

Merry Christmas buddy. Best to you and your family.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Drive Wheel Bearing Replacement

My Grizzly 14" band saw has been making a clunking noise when running for a while now so while the shop is down I decided to take a look at it. With the blade removed, I could hear a "lump,lump, lump" noise when turning the bottom drive wheel and then I could feel vertical movement in it. That meant the bearing is shot!

I removed both screws in the front and real of the main shaft.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Finger


Hand Finger Thumb Nail Close-up

Then I made the mistake of removing the 3 screws to unfasten the pulley and put a puller on the front wheel to pull it off the shaft ( You don't have to remove the pulley to change the bearings!!!! )
Well, it was tight and I cracked a wheel spoke ( Harbor Freight epoxy held 'er back in place)
You can see from the above picture that there is a red residue around the front of the wheel. I called Grizzly to ask if they use Loctite on that shaft and they were not sure so I heated it with a propane torch while putting the pulley on the back of the pulley and it came off. I tapped the shaft out from the front and then knocked out the front bearing with a wood dowel. That is where I found the shaft to be worn where the bearing had locked up. The inside of the wheel was also full of white crystallized Locktite residue.
Writing implement Cylinder Office supplies Office equipment Gas


Writing implement Lipstick Office supplies Wood Cylinder


Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Alloy wheel


The front and rear bearings are the same ( 6204 2RS) 47mmOD, 20mm ID and 14mm thick
I found the best place to buy bearings is Fastenal. They were $2.50 each!!
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior


Wheel Green Automotive tire Tire Rim


Eyebrow Eye Eyelash Iris Fawn


I found you can get a new shaft for about $10 + shipping from Grizzly but I did not want to wait. I welded up the bad area and then turned it down to fit the bearing and put 'er all back together and it is real quiet …like new… again.
Gas Auto part Nickel Machine Engineering


I did have to open up the shop to use the lathe for the repair.

I hope this helps someone who might be in a similar situation

Cheers, Jim
Thanks, Dave, Tony, Joe,Eric, Roger and Ken.
I hope this helps someone out there so they can quickly fix their saw like I did.

Cheers, Jim
 

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