Tablesaw Cross-Cut Sled

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Blog entry by SirFatty posted 08-30-2015 02:43 PM 3000 reads 2 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

A cross-cut sled should be one of the first jigs that a woodworker makes for the tablesaw. It’s more accurate that the typical miter gage and is safer to use. I’ve made a few versions over the years, but have not created one for the the Porter Cable table saw purchased three years ago.

There are a couple things that set this version apart from the many variations seen on YouTube and various websites (or even Norm’s). First, the runners for the miter slots are made of steel, not the usual hardwood. Second the front and rear structural pieces are aluminum and not wood. With regards to the runners, wood seems to move too much with depending on humidity causing it to either be a perfect fit or too tight.

Here’s what was used for the project:

1/2” MDF
3/4” Steel strip
80/20 Series 15 1.5” x 3” Extruded Aluminum (1530-UL)
80/20 Series 15 5/16 bolts and slide-in nuts
Double-sided tape

The steel was purchased in a four foot length and cut in half. Since it was slightly larger than the miter slot, it had to be filed down to fit. Not too much, and just a few passes on each edge making sure to test fit during the process. When it was close, 400 grit sandpaper polished the edges smooth.

Next, holes were drilled and countersunk on each runner. The hole size and countersink depend on the screws used which is dependent on the sled material thickness.

Clean the steel to remove any oil or other contaminants and put the double-sided tape on it. Leave the paper attached for now. The metal is much thinner than the slot, so a few spacers are required to hold it flush with the table top. Six, 5/6” nuts worked in this example. Place the nuts in the slot, put the steal strips on top of the nuts and remove the tape paper. Carefully center the MDF over the runners and align with the front of the table. Press down firmly to attache the runners to the MDF. Flip it over and install screws to secure. It’s not critical that the runners are square to the MDF, but it should be close. What is important is that the runners are parallel to one another.

Slide the sled to test out the fit, it should move without binding along then entire length of the table. If not, use the file to adjust being careful not to cut into the MDF.

Next, saw a slot about halfway through the sled.

The next part is to attach the two structural pieces. These are what actually holds the sled together, and must accurately installed.

The mounting hardware requires a countersink. A total of 12 holes need to be drilled and have corresponding countersinks, the countersink was made with a Forster bit.

Using a couple framing squares, align the rear rail to be exactly square to the saw blade. Tighten the hardware to secure it in place.

Now install the front piece (alignment is not critical), add stop and safety blocks. Using a spare carbide-toothed saw blade cut through the aluminum at the desired height.

That’s the project completed. One of the nice things about using the extruded aluminum is the attachments that can easily be added. It addition to the stop-block, toggle clamps are also a useful add-on.

Thanks for looking!

-- Visit my blog at

5 comments so far

View htl's profile


2020 posts in 580 days

#1 posted 08-30-2015 04:03 PM

Really nice jig!!!
I made a face for my table saw with the same size metal and love it.
Just another great example of what can be done with executed aluminum.

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.

View Northwest29's profile


1469 posts in 1911 days

#2 posted 08-30-2015 07:17 PM

Now that is some table saw sled – should last a very long time.

-- Ron, Eugene, OR, "Curiosity is a terrible thing to waste."

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9325 posts in 3473 days

#3 posted 08-30-2015 08:17 PM


This requires a little study…
... like, couldn’t you use the Mfr. END of a piece of the extrusion to get the Fence Squared to the blade?
... assuming that the End of the piece was dead-on square to it’s sides… (??)

COOL concept…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:"

View SirFatty's profile


524 posts in 1633 days

#4 posted 09-01-2015 05:41 PM

Thanks for the feedback!

Joe, I think the most accurate method is the one I used… I think it’s how Norm built his also.

Chrisprols, nice spamming there. You read the post, replied in a way that makes sense, and yet you manage to link crap. Bravo!

-- Visit my blog at

View Chrisprols's profile


7 posts in 435 days

#5 posted 09-02-2015 07:42 AM

Hi SirFatty,
It was not spamming. I did build a small sled myself and used the 5 cut method to adjust it after seeing the video I linked to you.
I’m sorry you thought it was crap and spamming. that was not the goal.
Have a good day.

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