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Miter Gauge Extension

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Blog entry by SirFatty posted 229 days ago 1307 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The miter gauge that comes with the Porter-Cable PCB270TS is typical in that it comes with a small protractor head to push the work piece with (there is a bit of side-to-side “slop” that needs to be adjusted out, more on that in a upcoming post). There are a couple problems with this design, and the first is safety. It’s preferable to have support for the wood as close to the blade as possible. Second is accuracy. Any movement of the workpiece will cause inaccuracies, especially with smaller pieces.

To address this issue, there are a couple options: make a miter gauge extension utilizing the existing miter gauge, or purchase one.

Admittedly, this solution is only viable if the extruded aluminum is freely available, as 80-20 is fairly expensive. It might make more sense to purchase one. The assembly is quite simple: 1/4-20 carriage bolts, washers and wing nuts were all that was required to attach a 3” x 1.5” x 24” piece of 80-20 extruded aluminum to the Porter-Cable supplied miter gauge. It’s fully adjustable, and can easily have stops and clamps attached.

-- Visit my blog at dave.spalla.com



10 comments so far

View doubleDD's profile

doubleDD

2040 posts in 546 days


#1 posted 229 days ago

Dave, I like your idea, and am long overdue for an extension. Thanks for sharing

-- --Dave-- When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7452 posts in 2555 days


#2 posted 229 days ago

Nice modification!

I’m sure it gives you a better handle on it…

COOL!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View SirFatty's profile

SirFatty

469 posts in 715 days


#3 posted 229 days ago

doubleDD, no problem. Glad you found it interesting!

Joe, thanks for your support as always!

-- Visit my blog at dave.spalla.com

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

143 posts in 472 days


#4 posted 229 days ago

I made a miter gauge extension out of a 4’ 1×4 popular board. It is also adjustable, and costs less then 80-20 extrusions.

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

143 posts in 472 days


#5 posted 227 days ago

The URL for the plans is:
http://www.southpointhawaii.com/include/pdf_files/10bestsawjigs.pdf Look on page three.

View SirFatty's profile

SirFatty

469 posts in 715 days


#6 posted 227 days ago

@dschlic1: thanks for the link! I’ve always had a wood one, always made of oak. It worked fine. But since I have the new saw, and I wanted to start over with a new idea, I went with the aluminum. I think it’s a better long-term solution in that it’s dead flat and won’t (noticeably) expand or contract. And attaching/adjusting accessories will be easier too.

-Dave

-- Visit my blog at dave.spalla.com

View HillbillyShooter's profile

HillbillyShooter

3851 posts in 795 days


#7 posted 227 days ago

Looks great and I’m sure it works great. However, as you observed: “this solution is only viable if the extruded aluminum is freely available, as 80-20 is fairly expensive.” Ergo, I’m left with my wood fence. Thanks for the idea and I’ll know to keep my open for some 80-20 extruded aluminum.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View J_King's profile

J_King

12 posts in 371 days


#8 posted 218 days ago

Compared to the cost of miter gauges the aluminum is quite cheap. $40 and up for a simple miter gauge seems a little outrageous.

-- Jeremy - There's one thing that I've learned in life and that's there's no such thing as an "Expert". We all learn something new in our field every day.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3033 posts in 1316 days


#9 posted 218 days ago

I use my extension with a dado blade for cutting tenons. I trim the extension periodically so the shoulder of the tenon is always backed up. This prevents chipout on the workpiece.
I guess that’s the reason I just make sacrificial fences out of 3/4” plywood.
My first fence had a radius on the far corner, and was sealed with a shop-made finish.
Then I realized these are sacrificial, and make them plain and simple.

Nice tip, thanks for posting.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View SirFatty's profile

SirFatty

469 posts in 715 days


#10 posted 217 days ago

@J_King: agreed.. although the shortcoming of my gauge is the play in the slot, which a more expensive model probably addresses.

@pintodeluxe: definitely a a valid point… I usually use a scrap piece for a backer. The great thing about woodworking is that there’s a thousand different ways to do the same thing!

-- Visit my blog at dave.spalla.com

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