This is a picture of my first test humidor, obviously it’s a work in progress. I’m using box joints like this for it, and I am using the Freud box joint table saw blade set. I chose some cheap hemlock because I was not sure how well I would do. Aside from some tear out because my table saw jig was set up ( sawn through ) for 3/4” depth of cut, and now for the build I’m using 1/2” wood and depth of cut, it didn’t come out too badly. The tear out problem was unforeseen, but I will repair the jig tomorrow and it shouldn’t be an issue in the future. I’m building the final iteration of the humidor out of black walnut and spanish cedar, but I didn’t want to touch the good stuff until I was sure I could pull off the joinery.
I DID figure out a pretty nifty trick though. I’m sure I’m not the first to think of it, but I’m offering it up here for whatever it’s worth.
When you build a box joint jig, you have to make two keys, one for the jig, and one is a reference key. You cut the original key to twice the length needed, then cut it in half, and then glue one of the pieces into the jig, the second one is used to set the correct distance from the key glued in the jig to the side of the saw blade in future setups. This is not perfect, and in fact, the original may be imperfect. For me, the jig always seems to cut a little on the loose side, so you have increase the distance from the saw blade to the key to make the joint tighter.
How to measure for this???
Well, I pulled out my automotive feeler gauges, and proceeded to insert several in turn in the finished test joints between the pins. When I got a good tight interference fit, like you would get when setting spark plug gaps, I then used that feeler gauge in between the jig key and the reference key to make my final adjustments on the table saw.
Worked like magic, I was out 0.016”
-- That's not how it looked on my computer! http://www.megaliquidatordirect.com/