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Concrete Countertop Series #3: Waiting for the concrete

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Blog entry by Siegel_KenEvil posted 11-21-2010 04:54 PM 2486 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: No progress, just gathering information Part 3 of Concrete Countertop Series series Part 4: Computer Analysis on Concrete Countertop »

My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I’m doing a bunch of work that probably isn’t necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.

I used Bondo to smooth out my corners. Today I’ll hope to get the forms done for the back splashes.

In the pictures, you can see the side view profile screed I created. I have a different one for the front view.

You may also notice the 1 1/4” dowel combined with a glued up MDF block cut to a 2 1/2” diameter. This will be used to create the faucet thru hole and counter sink to reduce the local thickness from 1 1/2” to 1” around the faucet nut. I ordered my faucet today. Once I receive it, I will finalize the hole location.

I work for an engineering company and was able to run some analysis on my design. I will create a separate post with pictures later but basically the results indicate that no reinforcement is needed. I don’t feel comfortable with that so I did add two tension bars. These are actually used for fences but they are galvanized and inexpensive. I cut notches in them to create mechanical connections to the concrete and suspended them in the form with wires. If I could, I would have purchased 9 gauge ladder but I only found large rolls of it for over $100.

I decided on my color / pattern. The primary color will be charcoal mixed in the first batch concrete. My secondary color will be natural or grey. Using a technique I learned from a lost video, I will create a marble look with the two colors. Then, I will stain the entire piece with copper giving it a blue – blue/green color.

http://www.stainedfloor.com/Copper_Recipes.html

-- Scott



6 comments so far

View JJohnston's profile (online now)

JJohnston

1614 posts in 2759 days


#1 posted 11-21-2010 06:59 PM

Better clean off all those marks; they’ll transfer to the concrete. If you look closely at the underside of a bridge deck (and who ever does that, by the way), you’ll see the rebar layout marks put on the forms in “keel” (lumber crayon) by the ironworkers. Many agencies have gone to specifying white keel only.

Otherwise, looks good. I’ll be waiting to see how the sink turns out.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

View Siegel_KenEvil's profile

Siegel_KenEvil

114 posts in 2306 days


#2 posted 11-21-2010 07:13 PM

The marks between MDF layers? They are flat when I close my eyes and feel it. I think it’s dark from the glue, not shadows. Plus, I’m going to spray a couple coats of a primer and/or sealer, sanding between coats.

-- Scott

View JJohnston's profile (online now)

JJohnston

1614 posts in 2759 days


#3 posted 11-21-2010 07:57 PM

I was thinking of the long, straight lines on the bottom of the form, plus I think I see some notes or labels (words) among the lines. But as long as you’re going to cover everything up with a clean layer, no worry.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

3341 posts in 2553 days


#4 posted 11-21-2010 08:24 PM

One of local steel suppliers uses #9 wire to tie their steel loads together when they are making deliveries. They
will sell this by the pound to customers, and just give you approximately what you want. You could then make
your own grid. Remember Murphy’s law and also Gus’s corollary, “Murphy was an optomist”. It is better to
overbuild, than to wish you had after it is too late.

-- As ever, Gus-the 77 yr young apprentice carpenter

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2583 posts in 2559 days


#5 posted 11-22-2010 02:53 AM

i’ve never worked with concrete before. I get how the sink here is upside down, and you pour the concrete over it, but how do you get the concrete to form around the mold so the bottom of the sink doesnt just like a blog of concrete? I see your cut-out for what the bottom outside of the sink is supposed to look like, but i dont understand how that works?

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Siegel_KenEvil's profile

Siegel_KenEvil

114 posts in 2306 days


#6 posted 11-22-2010 01:56 PM

That cut-out for the underside is not attached to the form and can be dragged back and fourth to smooth out the concrete. I have a second one to do the same thing in the other direction. The concrete mix will be a little dry so it packs like a sand castle I guess.

JJ – I didn’t know that, thanks.

Blue – Great tip. I’ll look around for a local steel supplier.

-- Scott

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