This weekend I built the doors using the maple stock. I covered this process in Barrister Book Case Tutorial #11 so I won’t repeat it all here, but if you’re interested in learning more about building doors using cope and stick bits check out my #11 tutorial.
For whatever reason, my doors didn’t come out exactly square. I don’t know what happened, but their off a tad. The strange thing is they’re exactly square on the inside rabbit where the glass goes, but the measurement from the front face corners is off 1/8” I have no clue what could have caused this, but something obviously went wrong.
As a result of not being perfectly square, they don’t fit into the cases with the same gap all the way around so this will have to be fixed. I could just redo the doors, or I could plane the edges of the doors to square them up. Believe it or not with all the thousands I’ve spent on tools so far, I’ve yet to buy a decent quality hand plane, but now I have a perfect excuse to get one! I ordered a Veritas #5 1/4 Bench Plane from Lee Valley.
So I’ll have my new plane by next weekend and I should have no trouble shaving a little bit off the top half edge on the left, and the bottom edge on the right, to square these doors right up!
Next will be building the top. The top will have a birds eye maple veneer top, and I am clueless when it comes to veneering. I got Mike Burton’s book, Veneering a foundation course and I’ve looked through it but I still am unclear on the following issues:
1.) I’m planing on using 3/4 MDF for the substrate. It will be around 11” x 32”, do I need to veneer both sides of this piece to prevent cupping? (Burton mentioned that veneer can pull due to seasonal change, and cause severe cupping, but wouldn’t this only apply to large pieces?)
2.) Should I go with a paper backed veneer, and which adhesive should I use?
3.) Do I have to use a vacuum bag on a piece this size, or could I get by just using caul’s and clamps?
4.) The piece will have a 1/4 rabbit that will fit into a grove on the side pieces. Should I veneer the piece over sized, and then cut the final size, and the rabbits into it with the veneer already applied, or make the piece with the rabbits first and then apply the veneer? Obviously, the first way is far easier, but will the veneer which is only 1/40 thick chip out too much when I try to put the rabbit into the edges? (It will be a cross grain rabbit.)
Believe it or not the book was not much help on these issues. The book deals with projects and techniques that are far more advanced than this simple little flat square piece! The book explains all the options, but I’m not sure which ones are the best for this simple little veneering task.
Any help or advise from LJ readers would sure be appreciated!
-- Craig, Springfield Ohio