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Delta 46-715 Lathe Refurbish Project #7: Controls Done and Turning Zinc!!

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Blog entry by Sawdustonmyshoulder posted 01-20-2015 04:02 AM 2372 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Fire that puppy up for a test run Part 7 of Delta 46-715 Lathe Refurbish Project series Part 8: It's done!!! Ready to start turning!!! »

The control box is done and mounted. I found a few things out the hard way. One was you don’t ground the motor controller. Man, the flash and the smoke! Well, that was a motor controller down the drain. Luckily, I had a spare. Upon a little research, DON’T GROUND THE MOTOR CONTROLLER’S HEAT SINK. The box I bought was aluminum, so I had to isolate the motor controller from the box. Nylon screws, washers and bolts was the solution to the grounding issue. I did ground the aluminum box but made sure the motor controller was well insulated away from the grounding wire and metal box.

I also made another change to the controls. I replaced the 250K pot with a 10K pot. I get a better separation between the speeds.

Here is the pictures of the final mounted control box.

The black toggle switch is for the AC on and off, the light next to it indicates the AC is on, the rocker switch is for reversing the direction of the rotation, the black knob is to adjust the speed of the lathe, and the red toggle switch is to turn the motor on and off.

The indexing pulley still needs truing. I mounted it on the ‘new’ lathe with my Nova Midi Chuck and turned it with Easy Wood Tools Rougher with a cutter with a slight radius. Wow, those things cut cast zinc very well. I have zinc shavings allover the shop.

Here are before and after photos.

Before:

After:

Now, the next step is to put a scale on the potentiometer.

-- Makin' Sawdust!!!



10 comments so far

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7923 posts in 1845 days


#1 posted 01-20-2015 08:08 AM


I replaced the 250K pot with a 10K pot. I get a better separation between the speeds.
- Sawdustonmyshoulder

Hmm, will have to check which pot I used. Not sure what you mean by separation of speeds on a variable speed motor. Do you mean the speed increase is more even across the band?

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View altendky's profile

altendky

169 posts in 1675 days


#2 posted 01-20-2015 12:47 PM

As you found out the hard way, the actual IC driver chips have their builtin heat pads attached in such a way that they go AC hot sometimes. It’s always annoying to deal with when you have to use external heat sinks… Just keep in mind with your insulation that you are possibly/probably isolating full AC voltage. Ditto when you open the box.

Also, what motor controller were you using? That could help understand why the 10k pot is better.

View Sawdustonmyshoulder's profile

Sawdustonmyshoulder

413 posts in 3093 days


#3 posted 01-20-2015 02:53 PM

Rick M, if you visualize the pot turns 360 degrees and see it as a clock face. My effective range, 500 RPMs to 2800 RPM was from 9 o’clock to 12 o’clock with the 250K pot. Now with the 10K pot, that range looks more like 3 o’clock to 12 o’clock. So my scale is much more usable. Hope that helps.

altendky, I am using the MC-60 motor controller from a treadmill. The box that the controller and controls are in is aluminum. I did ground it to the green wire in the incoming AC cord. I would hope that that would make the box safer if the AC got into it. I’m a woodworker first and an electrician about ninth. Any help from someone more adept at electricity would be greatly appreciated.

-- Makin' Sawdust!!!

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4456 posts in 3426 days


#4 posted 01-20-2015 03:20 PM

I was just wonderin’. How high did ya jump when everything incinerated?
Sure is lookin’ good.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Sawdustonmyshoulder's profile

Sawdustonmyshoulder

413 posts in 3093 days


#5 posted 01-20-2015 04:44 PM

Bill, that pop was much compared to what I run into at work.

-- Makin' Sawdust!!!

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7923 posts in 1845 days


#6 posted 01-20-2015 05:46 PM


Rick M, if you visualize the pot turns 360 degrees and see it as a clock face. My effective range, 500 RPMs to 2800 RPM was from 9 o clock to 12 o clock with the 250K pot. Now with the 10K pot, that range looks more like 3 o clock to 12 o clock. So my scale is much more usable. Hope that helps.

Here is the scale I made for mine.
http://lumberjocks.com/wormil/blog/35680

The power band is fairly even and it uses the full 270° or so of the pot. The pot size I used is in one of my blog posts but I can’t remember which one.

Are you using the choke from the treadmill?


altendky, I am using the MC-60 motor controller from a treadmill. The box that the controller and controls are in is aluminum. I did ground it to the green wire in the incoming AC cord. I would hope that that would make the box safer if the AC got into it. I m a woodworker first and an electrician about ninth. Any help from someone more adept at electricity would be greatly appreciated.

- Sawdustonmyshoulder

Follow my wiring diagram and no more surprises:
http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2014/11/how-to-get-variable-speed-on-cheap.html

Great looking control box, much better than mine.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Sawdustonmyshoulder's profile

Sawdustonmyshoulder

413 posts in 3093 days


#7 posted 01-20-2015 07:24 PM

Rick M, I looked at the wiring diagram. Got a question. You are showing the AC running into the motor through the blue wires and then to the MC-60 AC in port. What is the advantage or purpose of this?

-- Makin' Sawdust!!!

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7923 posts in 1845 days


#8 posted 01-20-2015 09:25 PM

The black wire should be switched/fused. That is how both of mine were wired from the factory plus the board is labeled. When I took the treadmills apart I sketched the wiring and took photos then later made the wiring diagram so I wouldn’t forget and to maybe help others. There were also daughter boards involved but they aren’t necessary for my use. The daughter boards controlled displays and other motors. I grounded the motor to the main ground from the plug, those are the only things that should have a ground wire.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View georgechamplin's profile

georgechamplin

6 posts in 633 days


#9 posted 11-18-2015 02:54 AM

I’m in the process of converting a Rockwell 46-111 to use a treadmill motor. I stripped down a treadmill with a 1.5 hp motor and an MC-40 board, which is very similar to the MC-60 board in that it can use a simple pot to control speed. I salvaged the pot.

My board has a heatsink attached, it looks like it’s isolated from the board except for 5 black components along one side which are screwed to the heatsink.

My board was screwed directly to the frame of the treadmill which was grounded to the green wire from the power cord. So it looked grounded to me.

Here’s the motor and ground wire.

And here’s the board screwed to the same horizontal bar. The screw is under the blue wire.

So, do I need to isolate the control board when I install it?

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7923 posts in 1845 days


#10 posted 11-18-2015 05:03 AM

Mine was also mounted in an aluminum channel, I just left it that way.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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