So although I’m not actively working on this I do need to buy some parts from Grizzly and I just happened to find some handwheels that look like a good replacement. Even the bore is a perfect match. I just need to know what diameter the original one is since grizzly stocks a couple sizes. Does anybody have one of these planers?

You can see in the pic below, the previous owner’s attempt at fashioning a replacement handwheel out of wood.

This is what the handwheel looks like ($28):

This is the grizzly version ($7.75):

http://saritsblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/my-delta-dj-20-restoration-part-3.html

Here is a pic of the adjustment lever assembly. I have loosened the socket cap screws and turned the black plates 90 degrees. Now this end is free, but the side close to the cutterhead is not.

If you look carefully at this next pic, you can see the back set of socket cap screws. They cause similar plates to clamp to another rod at that end of the table. I just can’t figure out how to loosen those screws and secondly how would I re-install the tables once I do get them out?

Also notice that there is a spring that counteracts the weight of the tables to ease adjustment. I’m not sure how I can remove and later re-install that either.

Any help would be appreciated.

I got these on my last outing. I had just about given up hope when I saw one more yard sale sign on my way home. I managed to negotiate them down to $60. Its a Stanley #7C and #5C. The tote is broken on the 5, and the lip on the 7 also looks broken off. I’ll do a blog on restoring these once I can get some of my other projects squared away.

I don’t think these are the kind that should be kept in its original rusty condition, but if they are please let me know so I can sell them and get some new LN’s or LV’s instead. I want to have “users” not “collectibles”.

Since this is my first serious restoration I did a bit of research today. I’d like to take a stab at electrolysis rust removal and with that comes the need to replace the “japanning” (the black coating). I’m thinking that some sort of heavy duty paint would be good and easy. Some suggest an automotive engine paint and another recommended a epoxy enamel. What do you guys think?

Urethane Bandsaw Tires
Nothing too exciting here. Just had to soak them in hot water as the mfg suggested so I could stretch them over the wheels.

Motor Rehab
I got the key stock and pulley from Grainger today. The shaft of the motor was just a smidge too large for the bore of the pulley so I tensioned some sandpaper around the shaft with the motor running and that made a perfect fit.
As I turned the motor shaft by hand, I could hear light metal on metal contact so I decided to take the motor apart to investigate. As I was taking it apart I think I may have broken the plastic centrifugal switch contact plate… Oops! I then tried to track down a replacement switch, even calling an electric motor repair shop. The shop said, they stopped making parts for this motor, but I could buy another used and discontinued one for only $470! Sorry, but no. I ended up epoxying a large washer to the remaining piece of the contact plate (Washer cost=$0.40). I had to buy a gear puller to get the bearing off the shaft. This puts a little bit more pressure on the contact switches, but I think it should be fine. I can hear the switch return back to the start position after the motor shuts off. Unfortunately the metal on metal sound is still there… Oh well. I’ll take some more pics when I get the motor mounted.

If I have to rewire this anyways, should I wire it for 240? Are there any advantages to 240v other than smaller wire gauges?

The rest of my update is here:
http://saritsblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/ridgid-14in-bandsaw-restoration-upgrade_29.html

http://saritsblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/ridgid-14in-bandsaw-restoration-upgrade.html

The 400mm is equivalent to a 15 1/2” planer.

First things first, I have to get the feed rollers out.
The biggest complaint w/ this planer is that the rollers turn into cheese after a few years and the replacements cost $253 each! I found out that you can have them recovered with a much better material for about $100 each.

Here’s whats left of the rubber on one:

Here’s one cleaned up ready for recovering. The one on top is the “good” one if you can say that.

I was worried that one of the bearing blocks could have worn through and then the shaft would be eaten away, necessitating a full roller replacement. This one wasn’t worn through, but the bearing block seems to have developed grooves which have started to grind away at the shaft. Also note that 20 year old grease in the blocks made it almost impossible to turn, let alone remove. WD40 did wonders in freeing it up.

Here’s the offending bearing block. Notice the ridge that was the source of the groove.

Removing the rollers was a bit tricky as I kept stripping the screws holding the bearing blocks in place. Luckily one of my best investments ever was the Alden ProGrabit set. It really does work like what you see in the infomercials.

Anyone know how to remove the silver knob which lets you turn the cutter head? (yes I will remove the screw first) It looks like it might thread onto the cutter head shaft. It might be catastrophic if I try to torque it off and it turns out that I should have used a gear/pulley puller.

But, oh pegboard, how do I miss thee. Let me count the ways…
It was so easy to just pick up a saw hanging on the wall or see where a tool should go when I’m done with it. Since I now have to rummage through a few boxes to find what I need, I just leave whatever I use out, cluttering every worksurface I have.

Clearly, some compromise must be had. I’ve decided that I must put up pegboard, but not on precious wall space. My solution… false walls (or for you HGTV nuts, faux walls). And to make this even more interesting, these walls should be mobile. I’ll make shelves with casters and hang pegboard on the backs and sides. I’ll be able to move the tools to each workstation rather than making a trip across the shop every time I need something.

Then on the sides of all my tool stands, mount even more pegboard, like here on my router table.