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Makita 2040 Planer Restoration

36K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  canadianlumberjock 
#1 ·
Disassembly

From what I've read, the makita 2040 planer seems to be one of those well built machines that keeps on running year after year well after many other name brands have bit the dust. I bought this on CL for $65 dollars and its gonna need a lot of work to get it up to my standards. The $65 will only be a drop in the bucket when I'm done with it… shhh!!! don't tell my wife.



The 400mm is equivalent to a 15 1/2" planer.



First things first, I have to get the feed rollers out.
The biggest complaint w/ this planer is that the rollers turn into cheese after a few years and the replacements cost $253 each! I found out that you can have them recovered with a much better material for about $100 each.

Here's whats left of the rubber on one:


Here's one cleaned up ready for recovering. The one on top is the "good" one if you can say that.


I was worried that one of the bearing blocks could have worn through and then the shaft would be eaten away, necessitating a full roller replacement. This one wasn't worn through, but the bearing block seems to have developed grooves which have started to grind away at the shaft. Also note that 20 year old grease in the blocks made it almost impossible to turn, let alone remove. WD40 did wonders in freeing it up.



Here's the offending bearing block. Notice the ridge that was the source of the groove.


Removing the rollers was a bit tricky as I kept stripping the screws holding the bearing blocks in place. Luckily one of my best investments ever was the Alden ProGrabit set. It really does work like what you see in the infomercials.



Anyone know how to remove the silver knob which lets you turn the cutter head? (yes I will remove the screw first) It looks like it might thread onto the cutter head shaft. It might be catastrophic if I try to torque it off and it turns out that I should have used a gear/pulley puller.
 
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#2 ·
Hey Sarit, Once you get the screw out and the washer off, you should be able to see any threads if they are there. In my experience when you find a screw and washer, it is a press fit and will need a gear puller to disassemble the rest.
I've been thinking about the Grabit set up. I just didn't trust the commercials. I'll give them a try now. Keep us posted on the rebuild, Rand
 
#5 ·
Just signed up and noticed your planer project.I have access to several parts and pieces.Makita here in Canada has several parts still available and I also have a love for this tool and have spare parts from another 2040 that is sitting as my personal scrap yard.So if you need some parts that you cannot find in your local area let me know and I probably have access to it.
 
#6 ·
Thank you so much for the offer canadianlumberjock. I did notice that some of the parts are being discontinued at the online parts stores like ereplacementparts.com, but I think I have all the parts at this point. I'll definitely, hit you up on the offer if I need some more parts.
 
#8 ·
as of 12-19-12 it cost me 209.50 to have j.j. short recover makita 2040 feed rollers. i have a type 1 and had a hell of a time reinstalling them to factory specs. don't over tighten roller pressure springs, u'll burn up plain bearing. call me if u want tips or help. mike @ 50eight-33three-933six.
 
#10 ·
Hi,
Thanks wrenchguy.
My 2040 restoration has been put on hold. In that time, I've bought and restored a 1980's Delta DJ-20 jointer and built a shed to house the tools while my workshop (garage) is being fixed. I'll be resuming after I can move my tools back inside, which I'm guessing will be some time in Feb.
 
#12 ·
It's still halted as I'm still doing the workshop remodel (hard w/ 2 small kids and a full time job).
I didn't have rust on the posts, but if I did find some I would try wrapping rags soaked in evapo-rust and then covered in plastic to prevent it from drying out.
 
#13 ·
Greetings all,
Recently retired and heading back into the shop. It's been awhile and anxious to get busy on some projects.
I have recently acquired a Makita 2040 and discovered this post. Albeit 2 years old I was hoping for some assistance and to share my experience.
The table was rusted solid on the posts. I disassembled the screw assembly and applied a combination of 50% acetone to 50% ATF (another post discovery, works great) over a 3 week period. A well placed bottle jack and a few pumps later and POW! the table broke free and I was able to jack the table and cutter assembly off the posts. Applied a little Naval Jelly and then polished up the posts with some emery cloth, applied some WD40 and with a little coxing, and my son's help, was able to ease the table back onto the posts. We manually raised and lowered it a few times and it glides smooth as butter. However, in this process I had to do more than unscrew the lead screw, it got thrashed along the way, so I need a new one of those and a couple of other parts, but the rollers are perfect and with the rest of the rust removed (the table was the worst) I believe I will have a great workhorse for years to come.
I see that canadianlumberjock had some spare parts. Still the case? with all that said, glad to be aboard.
 
#15 ·
I've gone the cheap route and recovered the rollers with 1 1/4" vinyl tubing from Lowes (as I've seen others online have had success doing this).

The problem I have is that it appears my chip breaker (on the infeed side of the knives-part #25 in the manual) is about 1/4" lower than the knives. I can't get any wood past the chip breaker, so it will never make it to the knives. This is a factory installed piece that should never come out, and doesn't have any way to adjust. My knives appear (from the manual and other planers I have) to be positioned correctly. I am at a loss, and don't want to take a grinder to the chip breaker, since that doesn't seem logical.

Does anyone have a side picture of their Makita 2040 planer showing the feed rollers, chip breaker, and knives? I don't think there is a way to lower the knives 1/4", and I can't move the chip break up. I'm at a loss!
 
#16 ·
I just finished about a month ago fixing up a 2040 I bought at a local swap meet. Had the in and out feed rolls recovered at Western Roller in Bend, Or. Had some trouble with a couple of the bearing block screws which I finally got out with an impact type extractor. Also had some difficulty getting the roll height and spring tensioner screws out and cleaned up, but finally got them done.

I got it all done and it made real nice chips and ran quite well. The only problem was that there must have been a rock in the bark of the aprox 8 inch wide piece of rough cut walnut I was using to test the machine and I knocked a notch in my newly sharpened blades. Very first board, on the first planer I ever owned!!!

I am wondering if both edges of the blades can be sharpened so that I can have a backup in the future, instead of buying another set of blades, Anyone have a comment on that?

I still need to adjust my table rolls a little as I get a little snipe on both ends of a 2 ft long board, about 4 or so inches from the ends. Of course now I need to get the blades sharpened again, too.

Skyboy, I cant really get a decent picture of the end of my rolls, chip breaker, and so forth, but I can say I had my chip breaker out to straighten the fingers a bit. It is not adjustable as you said. It looks to stick down just about the same distance as the cutter blades at max travel do. The in feed and out feed rolls height should be adjusted so that they stick down 3 mm below the frame (one full turn of the height adjustment wheel), on both the in feed and out feed rolls. Then tension the springs a little, so it will grab and pull the wood in and push it out. I didn't know how much tension to use so I just tightened the adj screws till it felt right when squeezing by hand. Seemed to work fine.

I found some addendum to the owners manual on another web site which I found helpful and might help you with the roll adjustment. Here is the link to that;
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/archives/makita-2040-thickness-planner-feed-ro

They are the pdf files in reply 5 of 5 on that page.

Good luck!
 
#17 ·
Once I get the feed roller wheels in and adjusted (as per the manual-just below the frame), I'm thinking my knives just need to be move out about 1/4". This will get the workpiece to clear the chip breaker and still be cut. I don't want to move the knives out too much, since I don't want them to break. I'll need to get the calipers out and measure. If they have been ground down before, they might need to be replaced too.
Moving the knives out will mean they won't be positioned as in the manual with a flat board just touching them and the frame. I'll make two small magnetic jigs that will contact the frame and pull the knives up 1/4". This will make it easy to set both sides of both knives quickly.

If anyone thinks this is a bad or dangerous idea, let me know. I don't want the knives to shatter because they are too exposed.
 
#18 ·
Skyboy;

I have my knives adjusted per the manual, so that they just barely move a straight piece of wood set across the top of the frame at the blade opening. They only stick out above the cutter head spool in the rounded groove about 2 mm. The blade edge is probably about 1/4 in out from the edge of the blade retainer clamps.

My chip breaker extends down almost as far as the blades do when at maximum travel. The in and out feed rolls extend about 3 mm below the frame (one documents says sb 1.5 mm the other says 3 mm). My spring tension adjusting screws have about 2 threads showing above the roller height adjustment screw (which are basically flush on top of the frame). I can spring the rolls up and down with firm hand pressure. Seems to feed in and push out wood just fine.

The thing looks just about like figure 2 in the roller adjustment pdf found at the link in my post which is #15 on this thread (I cant seem to paste the pdf file into this comment).

Anyway enough babble…..... hope this helps.

I am still curious about sharpening both edges of the blades. Guess I need to do some checking to see if the slots in the blades are such that both edges of the blade can be setup to cut properly. Comments anyone?
 
#20 ·
Sourcing a new handwheel

Seems like I'm always working on too many restoration projects at once. I guess one benefit is I can order parts for multiple projects and save on shipping.

So although I'm not actively working on this I do need to buy some parts from Grizzly and I just happened to find some handwheels that look like a good replacement. Even the bore is a perfect match. I just need to know what diameter the original one is since grizzly stocks a couple sizes. Does anybody have one of these planers?

You can see in the pic below, the previous owner's attempt at fashioning a replacement handwheel out of wood.


This is what the handwheel looks like ($28):


This is the grizzly version ($7.75):
 
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