Makita 2040 Planer Restoration #1: Disassembly

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Sarit posted 03-28-2011 10:48 AM 17332 reads 4 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Makita 2040 Planer Restoration series Part 2: Sourcing a new handwheel »

From what I’ve read, the makita 2040 planer seems to be one of those well built machines that keeps on running year after year well after many other name brands have bit the dust. I bought this on CL for $65 dollars and its gonna need a lot of work to get it up to my standards. The $65 will only be a drop in the bucket when I’m done with it… shhh!!! don’t tell my wife.

The 400mm is equivalent to a 15 1/2” planer.

First things first, I have to get the feed rollers out.
The biggest complaint w/ this planer is that the rollers turn into cheese after a few years and the replacements cost $253 each! I found out that you can have them recovered with a much better material for about $100 each.

Here’s whats left of the rubber on one:

Here’s one cleaned up ready for recovering. The one on top is the “good” one if you can say that.

I was worried that one of the bearing blocks could have worn through and then the shaft would be eaten away, necessitating a full roller replacement. This one wasn’t worn through, but the bearing block seems to have developed grooves which have started to grind away at the shaft. Also note that 20 year old grease in the blocks made it almost impossible to turn, let alone remove. WD40 did wonders in freeing it up.

Here’s the offending bearing block. Notice the ridge that was the source of the groove.

Removing the rollers was a bit tricky as I kept stripping the screws holding the bearing blocks in place. Luckily one of my best investments ever was the Alden ProGrabit set. It really does work like what you see in the infomercials.

Anyone know how to remove the silver knob which lets you turn the cutter head? (yes I will remove the screw first) It looks like it might thread onto the cutter head shaft. It might be catastrophic if I try to torque it off and it turns out that I should have used a gear/pulley puller.

18 comments so far

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2495 posts in 2526 days

#1 posted 03-28-2011 10:48 PM

Hey Sarit, Once you get the screw out and the washer off, you should be able to see any threads if they are there. In my experience when you find a screw and washer, it is a press fit and will need a gear puller to disassemble the rest.
I’ve been thinking about the Grabit set up. I just didn’t trust the commercials. I’ll give them a try now. Keep us posted on the rebuild, Rand

View JPJ's profile


792 posts in 2040 days

#2 posted 03-29-2011 04:12 AM

In a past life I owned one of these’ great planer, somewhere buried in a shop move I have a new set of blades never used are you interested??

View Sarit's profile


514 posts in 2559 days

#3 posted 03-29-2011 05:44 PM

Sure, send me a PM.

View canadianlumberjock's profile


5 posts in 1664 days

#4 posted 04-04-2012 12:49 AM

Just signed up and noticed your planer project.I have access to several parts and pieces.Makita here in Canada has several parts still available and I also have a love for this tool and have spare parts from another 2040 that is sitting as my personal scrap yard.So if you need some parts that you cannot find in your local area let me know and I probably have access to it.

View Sarit's profile


514 posts in 2559 days

#5 posted 04-04-2012 02:40 PM

Thank you so much for the offer canadianlumberjock. I did notice that some of the parts are being discontinued at the online parts stores like, but I think I have all the parts at this point. I’ll definitely, hit you up on the offer if I need some more parts.

View canadianlumberjock's profile


5 posts in 1664 days

#6 posted 04-04-2012 04:16 PM

Your welcome.Had my 2040 in shop recently for a little tune up Makita guys all ways do well by me.Hoping that my machine out lives me!!

View wrenchguy's profile


13 posts in 1478 days

#7 posted 12-20-2012 06:40 PM

as of 12-19-12 it cost me 209.50 to have j.j. short recover makita 2040 feed rollers. i have a type 1 and had a hell of a time reinstalling them to factory specs. don’t over tighten roller pressure springs, u’ll burn up plain bearing. call me if u want tips or help. mike @ 50eight-33three-933six.

-- wrenchguy mike, nw indiana, armpit of the nation!

View Bertha's profile


12989 posts in 2113 days

#8 posted 12-22-2012 09:47 PM


-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Sarit's profile


514 posts in 2559 days

#9 posted 12-23-2012 07:03 AM

Thanks wrenchguy.
My 2040 restoration has been put on hold. In that time, I’ve bought and restored a 1980’s Delta DJ-20 jointer and built a shed to house the tools while my workshop (garage) is being fixed. I’ll be resuming after I can move my tools back inside, which I’m guessing will be some time in Feb.

View 57chevy's profile


4 posts in 1175 days

#10 posted 08-20-2013 05:12 PM

Hows the restore going, I just bought one and will be doing the same thing. Did you have rust on the 4 posts and if so how did you take care of that problem. Thanks

View Sarit's profile


514 posts in 2559 days

#11 posted 08-20-2013 06:00 PM

It’s still halted as I’m still doing the workshop remodel (hard w/ 2 small kids and a full time job).
I didn’t have rust on the posts, but if I did find some I would try wrapping rags soaked in evapo-rust and then covered in plastic to prevent it from drying out.

View raydss's profile


2 posts in 919 days

#12 posted 04-18-2014 04:19 PM

Greetings all,
Recently retired and heading back into the shop. It’s been awhile and anxious to get busy on some projects.
I have recently acquired a Makita 2040 and discovered this post. Albeit 2 years old I was hoping for some assistance and to share my experience.
The table was rusted solid on the posts. I disassembled the screw assembly and applied a combination of 50% acetone to 50% ATF (another post discovery, works great) over a 3 week period. A well placed bottle jack and a few pumps later and POW! the table broke free and I was able to jack the table and cutter assembly off the posts. Applied a little Naval Jelly and then polished up the posts with some emery cloth, applied some WD40 and with a little coxing, and my son’s help, was able to ease the table back onto the posts. We manually raised and lowered it a few times and it glides smooth as butter. However, in this process I had to do more than unscrew the lead screw, it got thrashed along the way, so I need a new one of those and a couple of other parts, but the rollers are perfect and with the rest of the rust removed (the table was the worst) I believe I will have a great workhorse for years to come.
I see that canadianlumberjock had some spare parts. Still the case? with all that said, glad to be aboard.

-- Ray in Santa Cruz

View 57chevy's profile


4 posts in 1175 days

#13 posted 04-30-2014 03:43 AM

I was able to get my table free but then became involved in another project and it has been sitting waiting for me to get a chance to finish it. I hope that it is not stuck again.

View skyboy_psu's profile


20 posts in 1490 days

#14 posted 05-04-2014 08:04 PM

I’ve gone the cheap route and recovered the rollers with 1 1/4” vinyl tubing from Lowes (as I’ve seen others online have had success doing this).

The problem I have is that it appears my chip breaker (on the infeed side of the knives—part #25 in the manual) is about 1/4” lower than the knives. I can’t get any wood past the chip breaker, so it will never make it to the knives. This is a factory installed piece that should never come out, and doesn’t have any way to adjust. My knives appear (from the manual and other planers I have) to be positioned correctly. I am at a loss, and don’t want to take a grinder to the chip breaker, since that doesn’t seem logical.

Does anyone have a side picture of their Makita 2040 planer showing the feed rollers, chip breaker, and knives? I don’t think there is a way to lower the knives 1/4”, and I can’t move the chip break up. I’m at a loss!

View bea413's profile


2 posts in 972 days

#15 posted 05-05-2014 06:06 AM

I just finished about a month ago fixing up a 2040 I bought at a local swap meet. Had the in and out feed rolls recovered at Western Roller in Bend, Or. Had some trouble with a couple of the bearing block screws which I finally got out with an impact type extractor. Also had some difficulty getting the roll height and spring tensioner screws out and cleaned up, but finally got them done.

I got it all done and it made real nice chips and ran quite well. The only problem was that there must have been a rock in the bark of the aprox 8 inch wide piece of rough cut walnut I was using to test the machine and I knocked a notch in my newly sharpened blades. Very first board, on the first planer I ever owned!!!

I am wondering if both edges of the blades can be sharpened so that I can have a backup in the future, instead of buying another set of blades, Anyone have a comment on that?

I still need to adjust my table rolls a little as I get a little snipe on both ends of a 2 ft long board, about 4 or so inches from the ends. Of course now I need to get the blades sharpened again, too.

Skyboy, I cant really get a decent picture of the end of my rolls, chip breaker, and so forth, but I can say I had my chip breaker out to straighten the fingers a bit. It is not adjustable as you said. It looks to stick down just about the same distance as the cutter blades at max travel do. The in feed and out feed rolls height should be adjusted so that they stick down 3 mm below the frame (one full turn of the height adjustment wheel), on both the in feed and out feed rolls. Then tension the springs a little, so it will grab and pull the wood in and push it out. I didn’t know how much tension to use so I just tightened the adj screws till it felt right when squeezing by hand. Seemed to work fine.

I found some addendum to the owners manual on another web site which I found helpful and might help you with the roll adjustment. Here is the link to that;

They are the pdf files in reply 5 of 5 on that page.

Good luck!

showing 1 through 15 of 18 comments

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics