Looking for a little advice here. I am a novice woodworker. Right now I am having some issues with my Table Saw. I own a Craftsman Contractors saw (Model # 113.298762) and the issues are as follows:
1. Saw binds and will not turn when raised to full height. Something is stopping the motor from turning the blade.
2. Belt pulleys, both at the Trunion and motor, loosen and have started working their way off. This has happened once before and at that time I assumed it was because the saw had not been used for a long time, so I tightened the pulley set screws and continued using the saw. In the back of my head though, I always had a morbid fear that the pulley would come off and become a missile with unknown trajectory.
As far as I know, the belt has never been replaced. I assume that if the belt is working the pulleys off of their spindles that somehow the alignment is out on the saw. I just don’t know where to start on correcting the issues. I have stopped using the saw as it isn’t safe.
My plan is to take the saw apart this weekend and correct all issues. Any help/advice you at LJs can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam McPeek
-- Sam

















6 comments so far
Radu
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242 posts in 1239 days
#1 posted 802 days ago
Sam,
I have the same saw and I did have one of the pulleys, on the arbor side, come lose. I meant to put a little dab of Loctite (I think the blue is not the permanent one) but didn’t do it yet. This got me into the habit to always check the TS before I start it up. As for the binding issue just make sure when you raise the blade (all the way up) the pulley does not touch the undertable. If it does it needs to go in a little more. To check, rise the blade all the way up and then try turning the blade by hand (of course unplug the saw before you do it). I am using the original belt too, and I tried to align the pulleys as good as I could. It passed the coin test, so I’m happy. I hope this helps.
Kent Shepherd
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2693 posts in 1482 days
#2 posted 802 days ago
It is not unusual for pulleys to get loose. Tighten the set screw—after you make sure the 2 pulleys are still aligned. Make sure the key is there if it accepts one. You probably should also change the belt if there is wear or cracking. I prefer the cast iron hub and sheave type pulleys to the cheap ones that come on many cheaper saws. They lock down much better and run smoother. The bad news is, they are not cheap, but I think they are well worth it.
I really don’t think the pulleys will fly off. I’ve had a bunch come loose, but never lost one.
-- She thought I hung the moon--now she just thinks I did it wrong
Grandpa
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2399 posts in 871 days
#3 posted 802 days ago
If the sheaves come off they won’t come at you. I had one on a band saw rub hole in the belt guard though. Machines steel sheaves are the best and that is what I would look for. Those cost me about $15 each. A new belt would be a good invenstment. I use a good quality regular belt. I have never used a link belt with but they are supposed to be good. I see no need if I use good sheaves and the saw is smooth. I am sure many will disagree. A set screw called a “Bulldog” set screw can be bought for a few cents. These bite in and don’t easily come out.
Samwise
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45 posts in 812 days
#4 posted 802 days ago
Thanks for the advice and comments. I have a PALs kit, A-line it system and new pulleys and linkbelt on order. My timeline of getting to it this weekend is not going to happen, since I have yet to recieve my shipment. In the meantime, I will try to adjust the saw to get it operable.
thanks,
-- Sam
auggy53
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159 posts in 875 days
#5 posted 801 days ago
something else to think about , i sometimes remove the allen set screw and sharpen it to a point so it bites into the shaft or tighten the screw and add another screw behind it sort of like double nutting a bolt.
-- rick
Grandpa
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2399 posts in 871 days
#6 posted 801 days ago
I think the bulldog screw has an end that prevents the loosening. They don’t like to come out so get it right the first time.
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