Tools / Materials Used:
7/16” Carbide Tip Drill Bit (Suitable for Metal) – Lowes
WD-40 – Spray lubricant for drilling – On Hand
Level (12”, 24”, 48”) – On Hand
5/8” Counter Boring bit (Suitable for Metal) – Lowes
Square(s) – On Hand
Philips Head Screw Driver – On Hand
Socket or wrench to fit nuts – On Hand
Clamps (Bar Clamps, C Clamps, Spring Clamps) – On Hand
Delta T2 30” Fence with Rails – Lowes
Metal Center Punch or Equivalent – Lowes
Allen Wrench – Supplied with Fence
This install is relatively easy only if you take your time and measure and recheck measurements constantly through the process. This fence was not specifically designed to be placed on a Craftsman saw but can work if you plan accordingly. I spent roughly 6 hours installing the fence over 3 nights. Most of my time was spent actually testing, measuring, and rechecking measurements. The install is a bit forgiving in that you’ll have some room to make adjustments after the fence is installed. (If you want the full document with pictures please let me know and I will email to you. I didn’t have time to post here right now but wanted to get this out)
1) To date I’ve only spoken with 1 user who actually got this fence installed successfully. He installed his on a 1952 Craftsman. I installed mine on a recent vintage (315.228390).
2) You can choose to drill the table face or the rails. I choose to drill the rails as I had plenty of existing bolt holes on the face and rear of the saw table. You may find that you need to do a combination of the two.
3) Must have a minimum of 1 ½ “ to work with front and rear of the table saw. Obviously since the fence was not designed to be installed on a Craftsman saw the holes will not line up vertically or horizontally. You’ll probably also find that the holes you drill into the fence are slightly higher than the existing machined holes.
Prep: Dry fit the fences using saw horses, cribbing, clamps, and bolting at least one existing hole to each rail to get an idea of the vertical fit and how the fence will ride.
Establishing Zero Point
STEP 1: First put the fence and guide tube together and mark the zero line on the front rail with a pencil.
Establishing Zero Point
STEP 2: Remove the guide tube and transfer this mark to the back rail making sure the back and front rails are aligned end to end. Ensure that you carry the line across the top face of each rail:
Rail Horizontal Alignment
STEP 3: Place the fence on the table making sure it is square to the table and butted up against the raised blade. Also checked to see if the blade is square to the miter gage slots just to be certain. Each model varies on how to ensure the blade is square so make sure to check your manual. Then mark and draw a line across the table where the zero sight reference point was located on the fence. The sight can be adjusted either way about ¼” so there is some leeway here so ensure that the sight is centered so that you can adjust slightly left or right after install.
Rail Vertical Alignment
STEP 4: Step 3 established the proper horizontal alignment. The fourth step aligns the fence vertically. With this model 315.228390 the vertical placement of the front rail was ⅝” and the vertical placement of the rear rail was ½”. (Note: the front face of this model has a beveled edge. The ⅝” measurement was taken from the front edge of the bevel. To the rear edge of the bevel the measurement was closer to ¾”). The vertical placement on different models may differ. Thus dry fit the rails with clamps to test several positions prior to drilling.
Drilling the rail holes
STEP 5: Once you have established the vertical and horizontal placement of the rails to your satisfaction mark the location of the holes for drilling. Once marked recheck your measurements and ensure the holes are spaced the same distance vertically for each hole. With this model the holes on the front rail end up being slightly higher than the existing hole. They ended up being just about as high on the rail as possible.
Counter bore the front rail holes
Step 6: Drill and bevel the holes ensuring to center punch prior to drilling so the bit won’t wander. I choose to drill first then counter bore after since I wanted to test fit the rail once I had the initial holes drilled. With the holes drilled and dry fit I then counter bored the holes carefully to allow the supplied screws to fit flush with the rail. Once complete I then attached and leveled the front rail. Measure carefully, however the 7/16” drill hole as well as the ⅝” counter bore will give you a little wiggle room so that you can properly level the rail
Drilling the rear rail holes
Step 7: Once the front rail was attached and level reattach the guide tube. Clamp the rear rail on and measure the gap between the fence and the table top. Try to get a consistent gap from front to back to ensure that the fence will ride level. As mentioned in step 5 the closest I was able to get the fence to the table was 3/16” since that was as low as I could mount the front rail. Once the fence gap is established ensure that the rear rail is level by making small adjustments as needed continually checking that the fence gap remains consistent.
Step 8: There are several adjustments once the rail is installed that need to be done:
1) Ensure that the front & rear rails are level and have a consistent measure from the top of the saw. Loosen the bolts and make micro adjustments as needed.
2) Ensure the fence gap remains consistent and adjust the rails as needed
3) Place the fence on the table and butt it up against the raised blade. Check the sight and make adjustments so the zero sight aligns properly
4) Ensure the fence is square to the miter slot
5) Ensure the fence is square to the table
6) Turn the fence upside down. You will notice 3 square holes in the fence body. There are bolts (3 each side for a total of 6) that you can loosen to raise or lower the fence sides. Lay the fence upside down on a flat level surface, then loosen all the bolts. This caused the fence body to drop, which in turn (once the fence was turned back over) lowered the fence sides. This is a good way to adjust the gap you’ll have from the fence to the table.
-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA