Installing the Delta T2 (Instructions and Tips)

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Sammy posted 01-24-2008 04:39 PM 11340 reads 8 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Tools / Materials Used:

7/16” Carbide Tip Drill Bit (Suitable for Metal) – Lowes
WD-40 – Spray lubricant for drilling – On Hand
Level (12”, 24”, 48”) – On Hand
5/8” Counter Boring bit (Suitable for Metal) – Lowes
Square(s) – On Hand
Philips Head Screw Driver – On Hand
Socket or wrench to fit nuts – On Hand
Clamps (Bar Clamps, C Clamps, Spring Clamps) – On Hand
Delta T2 30” Fence with Rails – Lowes
Metal Center Punch or Equivalent – Lowes
Allen Wrench – Supplied with Fence

This install is relatively easy only if you take your time and measure and recheck measurements constantly through the process. This fence was not specifically designed to be placed on a Craftsman saw but can work if you plan accordingly. I spent roughly 6 hours installing the fence over 3 nights. Most of my time was spent actually testing, measuring, and rechecking measurements. The install is a bit forgiving in that you’ll have some room to make adjustments after the fence is installed. (If you want the full document with pictures please let me know and I will email to you. I didn’t have time to post here right now but wanted to get this out)

1) To date I’ve only spoken with 1 user who actually got this fence installed successfully. He installed his on a 1952 Craftsman. I installed mine on a recent vintage (315.228390).
2) You can choose to drill the table face or the rails. I choose to drill the rails as I had plenty of existing bolt holes on the face and rear of the saw table. You may find that you need to do a combination of the two.
3) Must have a minimum of 1 ½ “ to work with front and rear of the table saw. Obviously since the fence was not designed to be installed on a Craftsman saw the holes will not line up vertically or horizontally. You’ll probably also find that the holes you drill into the fence are slightly higher than the existing machined holes.
Dry Fit

Prep: Dry fit the fences using saw horses, cribbing, clamps, and bolting at least one existing hole to each rail to get an idea of the vertical fit and how the fence will ride.

Establishing Zero Point
STEP 1: First put the fence and guide tube together and mark the zero line on the front rail with a pencil.

Establishing Zero Point
STEP 2: Remove the guide tube and transfer this mark to the back rail making sure the back and front rails are aligned end to end. Ensure that you carry the line across the top face of each rail:

Rail Horizontal Alignment
STEP 3: Place the fence on the table making sure it is square to the table and butted up against the raised blade. Also checked to see if the blade is square to the miter gage slots just to be certain. Each model varies on how to ensure the blade is square so make sure to check your manual. Then mark and draw a line across the table where the zero sight reference point was located on the fence. The sight can be adjusted either way about ¼” so there is some leeway here so ensure that the sight is centered so that you can adjust slightly left or right after install.

Rail Vertical Alignment
STEP 4: Step 3 established the proper horizontal alignment. The fourth step aligns the fence vertically. With this model 315.228390 the vertical placement of the front rail was ⅝” and the vertical placement of the rear rail was ½”. (Note: the front face of this model has a beveled edge. The ⅝” measurement was taken from the front edge of the bevel. To the rear edge of the bevel the measurement was closer to ¾”). The vertical placement on different models may differ. Thus dry fit the rails with clamps to test several positions prior to drilling.

Drilling the rail holes
STEP 5: Once you have established the vertical and horizontal placement of the rails to your satisfaction mark the location of the holes for drilling. Once marked recheck your measurements and ensure the holes are spaced the same distance vertically for each hole. With this model the holes on the front rail end up being slightly higher than the existing hole. They ended up being just about as high on the rail as possible.

Counter bore the front rail holes
Step 6: Drill and bevel the holes ensuring to center punch prior to drilling so the bit won’t wander. I choose to drill first then counter bore after since I wanted to test fit the rail once I had the initial holes drilled. With the holes drilled and dry fit I then counter bored the holes carefully to allow the supplied screws to fit flush with the rail. Once complete I then attached and leveled the front rail. Measure carefully, however the 7/16” drill hole as well as the ⅝” counter bore will give you a little wiggle room so that you can properly level the rail

Drilling the rear rail holes
Step 7: Once the front rail was attached and level reattach the guide tube. Clamp the rear rail on and measure the gap between the fence and the table top. Try to get a consistent gap from front to back to ensure that the fence will ride level. As mentioned in step 5 the closest I was able to get the fence to the table was 3/16” since that was as low as I could mount the front rail. Once the fence gap is established ensure that the rear rail is level by making small adjustments as needed continually checking that the fence gap remains consistent.

Step 8: There are several adjustments once the rail is installed that need to be done:
1) Ensure that the front & rear rails are level and have a consistent measure from the top of the saw. Loosen the bolts and make micro adjustments as needed.
2) Ensure the fence gap remains consistent and adjust the rails as needed
3) Place the fence on the table and butt it up against the raised blade. Check the sight and make adjustments so the zero sight aligns properly
4) Ensure the fence is square to the miter slot
5) Ensure the fence is square to the table
6) Turn the fence upside down. You will notice 3 square holes in the fence body. There are bolts (3 each side for a total of 6) that you can loosen to raise or lower the fence sides. Lay the fence upside down on a flat level surface, then loosen all the bolts. This caused the fence body to drop, which in turn (once the fence was turned back over) lowered the fence sides. This is a good way to adjust the gap you’ll have from the fence to the table.

-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA

13 comments so far

View dalec's profile


612 posts in 3888 days

#1 posted 01-24-2008 05:47 PM

From your description of the process, its seems a bit intimidating.

I have a fence that won’t stay parallel. I have half-decided not to invest much more into the saw. This means I will have to check the fence each time I move the fence, what a pain. So, I may decide that it is worth the investment to get an after-market fence and all the uncertainty installing the fence on my TS.

Thanks for the installation instructions.


View Sammy's profile


14 posts in 3782 days

#2 posted 01-24-2008 06:09 PM

Here’s some encouragement:

1) I consider myself a novice woodworker
2) I’ve never installed an aftermarket fence before
3) Jamie helped out tremendously with the install as he went through the same thing and on a much older saw at that
4) Grab the entire instaall doc Here

-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA

View Jamie's profile


161 posts in 3814 days

#3 posted 01-25-2008 01:25 AM

That is awesome Sammy! It’s good to see that I am not the only one that toughed this one out.

One other thing is if you turn the fence upside down, you will notice 3 square holes in the fence body. There are bolts (3 each side for a total of 6) that you can loosen to raise or lower the fence sides. I layed the fence upside down on a flat level surface, then loosened all the bolts. This caused the fence body to drop, which in turn (once the fence was turned back over) lowered the fence sides. This is a good way to adjust the gap you have from the fence to the table.

Did you get any pictures?

-- Jamie, Kentucky

View Sammy's profile


14 posts in 3782 days

#4 posted 01-25-2008 01:40 AM

Jamie, that was my next step. I posted a PDF of the instructions with pics on a temp website website since I didn’t have time to post the pics yet. I’ll add your tips to the document. I was so happy when I finnaly got it on I couldn’t stop smiling! Thanks a million for the help and all credit goes to you.

-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA

View Jamie's profile


161 posts in 3814 days

#5 posted 01-25-2008 01:49 AM

Wow Sammy.. I just checked out the installation doc that you made.. That is awesome. I was too anxious when setting up mine to even take any pictures. Kudos to you!

And by the way, you are very welcome. We’re all here to help each other out.

-- Jamie, Kentucky

View dalec's profile


612 posts in 3888 days

#6 posted 01-25-2008 05:16 AM


Nice job of documenting the installation process. Very professionally done. Thanks for the encouragement. I am leaning more toward getting an After-Market fence for my saw now that I have read through your experience. I have a Bosch 4000, so the install will differ. I just want to be sure whatever fence system I get, will work on the saw.


View Sammy's profile


14 posts in 3782 days

#7 posted 01-25-2008 05:29 AM

That was my greatest concern. There’s an article in the June 2004 Wood Workers Journal Magazine that was very informative. It reviewed all the aftermarket fences at the time. Not sure if you’d be able to get a back issue copy from them or not. It reviews 11 different aftermarket fences.

-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA

View dalec's profile


612 posts in 3888 days

#8 posted 01-25-2008 07:21 AM

Thanks Sammy.

I will look for that issue.


View woodsmith's profile


69 posts in 3792 days

#9 posted 01-25-2008 04:18 PM

I installed the delta t2 on a 1979 craftsman table saw. the hard part was deciding where to drill the holes in the angle iron to match the holes in the saw and give the the right height and make the zero point match up. I was off a little on the zero but there was enough adjustment on the guide to make it work. I wish i had had it 28 years ago.

-- woodsmith

View MWF's profile


6 posts in 3534 days

#10 posted 09-29-2008 01:11 AM

I have successfully installed the Delta T2 fence on my Craftsman table saw. Your installation instructions were perfect. The only thing I did different than you is that I elected to use the existing holes in the fence and drill into my table saw. On the back rail I drilled into both the fence and the saw for the hole on the aluminum table extension to provide better support for the extension.

The first thing I did was to give my saw a tune up and make sure that the move hadn’t knocked anything around such as: table extension level vs. the main table (the movers like to use the them as handles), saw blade parallel with the miter slots. Once I started installing the fence I completed the install in 4-5 hrs, thanks to your instructions.

Thank you very much!

View gardentiger's profile


58 posts in 2971 days

#11 posted 09-29-2010 03:22 PM

Do you still have the pdf doc for download? The website linked is inactive.

View john1102's profile


58 posts in 2668 days

#12 posted 02-05-2012 08:38 PM

Planning to install this, thanks for the tips.

View Ajohn's profile


1 post in 2027 days

#13 posted 11-07-2012 02:35 AM

I’m a new member and have Delta T2 on order for my Craftsman 113.299040 TS. I’m hoping document offered with pictures remains available. I would appreciate greatly to have your document with pictures prior to installation.

Thank you in advance for help….

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics