This project has really turned into a labor of love. Although, my work is far from what I’d consider craftsman level, I can tell that boxes are getting more square and my work more precise. What else can you ask for right?
What better first project for a new router table and fence than to build it’s doors and drawers.
The unit has 4 drawers on the right side: 4”, 5.5”, 6”, 9”. The bottom left drawer is 12”. No real science to the apportionment, just measured a few items that I planned to put in each drawer. The drawers are 26” wide and 28” deep, so I opted for 3/4 plywood sides with a 3/8 plywood bottom for strength. I rabbeted the bottoms to fit a 1/4 dado on the drawer sides.
I decided to use a drawer lock joint because 1) I had never used it before and 2) it was supposedly fast and strong. I had all kinds of trouble with the plywood tearing out on the drawer side piece. That little hook was just too small, especially by the time that I dry fitted each joint.
Any thoughts here? I presume that solid wood would not have the same problems. Has anyone tried these joints in ACX Home Depot plywood? Maybe this isn’t a problem with the more expensive baltic birch cabinet shop plywood.
The finished project turned out ok, but only after putting the better looking pieces on the drawer top. Here’s a look at a finished joint.
I decided to finished the drawers with some tung oil. I’d never used the stuff before. I wanted something on the drawers, but didn’t want to take the time to stain and poly. The tung oil was easy to apply and left a waterproof matte finish. Works good enough for this project.
Each drawer was mounted on 26” full extension slides that I picked up on ebay. Like I said, my measurements were precise. So precise, that I had to remove about a 1/32 from each drawer side to allow for clearance on the slides. oops?
I made the dust cabinet door out of some of the same douglas fir that was used on the face frame. Same finishing formula, 2 coats of Zinnser Seal Coat and 3 coats of general gel poly.
I decided to miter the door joints and glue with a biscuit, again because I’d never tried it that way before. I used a biscuit sized slot cutter on the router table because I don’t have a regular handheld biscuit cutter. I used a miter gauge at 45 degrees and Incra shop stop to prevent the biscuit from going outside the frame’s outer edge. Worked pretty good for a first time.
Here’s a pic of the glue up. The parallel clamps on two sides, coupled with standard f-clamps to “tweak” alignment made for the easiest miter joint glue-up that I’ve ever attempted.
Here’s a pic of the mounted/finished door with 3/8 plexi glass. I drilled a few holes along the bottom to encourage air flow. I’m not sure if this will be enough, but I can always drill a few more/larger holes if the need arises.
-- Working on a retirement hobby, only 30 more years to practice!