Shop Stuff

SPalm said:

$12 Incremental Stop Block

An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.

I had posted an incremental stop block a couple of years ago in a blog that used threaded rod. While it worked OK, it had a couple of problems; it wasn't strong enough for heavy use and it wasn't portable to a new fence once the old fence wore out. I wore it out.

So I decided to go simple and strong with a new design. I went and peeked around the Incra website and found the replacement racks for some of their fences. These are plastic like Legos, but have precision teeth on one surface that are spaced 1/32 inch apart. They are 6 inches long and attach with two screws. When two racks are mated to each other they are really locked in place. They are very durable while only costing $2 each. So I bought 10 of them, and used five for this project.

I bought them by going to this web address:
http://www.incrementaltools.com/PARTS_INCRA_Wonder_Fence_p/pc-wonderfence.htm
And then selecting item number 16 from the pull down list on the right hand side:

ID#16 - PULT - 500600 [Add $1.95]

I mounted 4 of the racks to a strip of 1/8 inch thick aluminum. A pair of mated racks is about 5/8 inches so this sits nicely on top of a plain old 3/4 inch ply or MDF fence. (I am old school and don't like aluminum fences yet. I cut new zero clearance slots all the time. I made a new fence for these pictures). Then I mounted the aluminum strip on a piece of two inch tall, half inch ply. This assembly is now removable and can be mounted on a new fence. I also installed a row of small magnets to securely hold a ruler.

I then made a stop block with a rack inside and it also has a T-nut for the lock knob. It is kind of wide looking, but the screw holes in the racks are 4 inches apart. It hangs down 1 inch on the back and all the way to the table on the front. There is about an 1/8 inch gap on the inside when the lock knob is screwed out.

It works a charm. It's inexpensive. It's strong. Removal, moving, and re-installing the stop block is very smooth and easy. The whole thing can be moved to another fence in minutes.
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Three items that immediately pop to mind that are missing from this design:

Micro Adjust is used to hit the spots between the 1/32 increments. The aluminum bar actually has slotted mounting holes in it so it could slide side to side with a screw adjustment on the side but I could not get this to work consistently and it added a lot of slop. Alternatively the side of the stop block could have a protruding adjustment screw. Or just use shims. 1/32 inch works for most projects.

Flip Stop is use to get the stop block quickly out of the way. This requires a hinge which is easy enough, but causes weakness and slop in the system. The block is easy to remove. Maybe I'll add it at a later date.

Thin or Pointy Stock Catch is used to keep work-pieces from wedging under the stop block. It is implemented by adding a small groove near the bottom of the fence and a protruding tenon that rides in the groove. This could easily be added.

Comments and suggestions are welcome. I just think this is kind of nice trick to add to a fence for any number of tools.

Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

$12 Incremental Stop Block

An incremental stop block is a stop block for a fence that can be moved in precise increments or can be removed and then returned to exactly the same spot at a later time. This is how Incra got its name. I am too cheap to buy an Incra fence, so instead I spend hours trying to save a buck or two. Go figure. I mostly like the feature of being able to put the stop block exactly back where I had it earlier - and I use pencil marks, not the ruler.

I had posted an incremental stop block a couple of years ago in a blog that used threaded rod. While it worked OK, it had a couple of problems; it wasn't strong enough for heavy use and it wasn't portable to a new fence once the old fence wore out. I wore it out.

So I decided to go simple and strong with a new design. I went and peeked around the Incra website and found the replacement racks for some of their fences. These are plastic like Legos, but have precision teeth on one surface that are spaced 1/32 inch apart. They are 6 inches long and attach with two screws. When two racks are mated to each other they are really locked in place. They are very durable while only costing $2 each. So I bought 10 of them, and used five for this project.

I bought them by going to this web address:
http://www.incrementaltools.com/PARTS_INCRA_Wonder_Fence_p/pc-wonderfence.htm
And then selecting item number 16 from the pull down list on the right hand side:

ID#16 - PULT - 500600 [Add $1.95]

I mounted 4 of the racks to a strip of 1/8 inch thick aluminum. A pair of mated racks is about 5/8 inches so this sits nicely on top of a plain old 3/4 inch ply or MDF fence. (I am old school and don't like aluminum fences yet. I cut new zero clearance slots all the time. I made a new fence for these pictures). Then I mounted the aluminum strip on a piece of two inch tall, half inch ply. This assembly is now removable and can be mounted on a new fence. I also installed a row of small magnets to securely hold a ruler.

I then made a stop block with a rack inside and it also has a T-nut for the lock knob. It is kind of wide looking, but the screw holes in the racks are 4 inches apart. It hangs down 1 inch on the back and all the way to the table on the front. There is about an 1/8 inch gap on the inside when the lock knob is screwed out.

It works a charm. It's inexpensive. It's strong. Removal, moving, and re-installing the stop block is very smooth and easy. The whole thing can be moved to another fence in minutes.
.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.
Three items that immediately pop to mind that are missing from this design:

Micro Adjust is used to hit the spots between the 1/32 increments. The aluminum bar actually has slotted mounting holes in it so it could slide side to side with a screw adjustment on the side but I could not get this to work consistently and it added a lot of slop. Alternatively the side of the stop block could have a protruding adjustment screw. Or just use shims. 1/32 inch works for most projects.

Flip Stop is use to get the stop block quickly out of the way. This requires a hinge which is easy enough, but causes weakness and slop in the system. The block is easy to remove. Maybe I'll add it at a later date.

Thin or Pointy Stock Catch is used to keep work-pieces from wedging under the stop block. It is implemented by adding a small groove near the bottom of the fence and a protruding tenon that rides in the groove. This could easily be added.

Comments and suggestions are welcome. I just think this is kind of nice trick to add to a fence for any number of tools.

Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...

SPalm said:

Fingernail Gouge Sharpening on the WorkSharp

While learning to turn, the tools in use eventually need to be sharpened. I looked at various jigs, holders, and solutions for sharpening. I own a WorkSharp, but I thought that I would not be able to do it all on this machine. But I have made a series of jigs, and am now able to sharpen all my major tools with it. First up is the trickiest one.

The hardest one to do is the Fingernail, or spindle gouge. Tormek and others have bars that slide out and pockets that hold the handle. I just could not justify the expense so I came up with a technique that is really pretty simple. Actually the flat sandpaper helps out here. This will work with any WorkSharp type clone too.

The first thing was to build a flat platform that is level with the sanding disc. This was solved with Stumpy Nubs' add-on cabinet. I downloaded the plans and built it out of ply with iron-on edge banding. I have not built the drawer yet but find the slots handy for storing extra paper and stuff. I have not used the rubbing compound discs. I believe that for turning tools 120 grit does a pretty good job by itself.

.
Then I made a tool holder. I drilled a large enough hole for the tool to pass through, two holes for bolts, and one stopped hole for the dowel. Then I split the block on the tablesaw. I stuck a long 1/4 dowel in it, measured from the tip of the gouge to the center of the dowel at 5 inches, and clamped it. I then measured 5 inches from the center of the gouge and cut off the dowel. I then rounded the end of the dowel. The measurements are more accurate than the picture shows. I used 5 inches for both - 4 inches for both (or so) maybe better for your gouge. This determines the amount of 'fingernail' curve - just make them the same.

.
I then made a quick measuring tool for next time by gluing a block to a thin piece of ply. This will allow easy clamp setup for subsequent sharpening. By pressing this jig against the flat part of the gouge, it is also good for checking that the dowel is 90 degrees to the gouge's face.

.
I drew a centerline on the top of the wood platform. I took a piece of scrap, cut a notch in it, and clamped it on the platform.

.
Now since the two legs of the triangle are 5 inches, the gouge will be ground at 45 degrees. Chuck up some 120 grit and roll the gouge from side to side while keeping the dowel in the notch. I 'paint' the gouge face with a Sharpie and that lets me know how I am doing. Move the notched board towards or away from the sandpaper to get some fresh grit. In the real world, I use both hands (one of them was taking these pictures). My left hand is kept near the sandpaper, keeping the tool in the middle, while the right hand sweeps the handle.

.

.

.

Ta Da

.
Comments and suggestions welcome,
Steve

Click to expand...