DVD Cabinet #4: Hanging Drawers and making the floating style base

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Blog entry by SPHinTampa posted 02-24-2013 08:05 PM 3326 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Dovetail drawers Part 4 of DVD Cabinet series Part 5: drawer fronts and finishing »

After the last session, I had the outer case and the drawers completed. So I started here

In this session, I hung the drawers and made a floating base. So I ended here:

1. Add slide hardware to inside of case by marking and then using spacer
2. Add slide hardware to drawers
3. Made templates for curved stretchers and cabriole legs
4. Cut leg, stretcher and float base stock
5. Cut loose tenon joinery
6. Cut curved stretchers
7. Cut cabriole legs
8. Cut floating base stretchers
9. Finished with glue up
Step 1 – Add slide hardware to case

I used accurride full extension sliders with the self close feature. Nice slides but I really struggled with amount of play in the springs at the end and had trouble getting drawer faces to line up evenly. I am not sure that this is the hardware’s fault as imperfections in the case may have caused issues.

I created a story stick to mark lines in the case where the slides should go. I do this as a double check on the spacers in case something goes wrong as I am assembling.

I then use a square to extend my line and a punch to center my first screw hole.

Since Padauk is so hard, you must pre drill all holes.

I then hung first slide. Slides have horizontal and vertical adjustable slots so that you can shift assembly. I typically locked in vertical first and then used horizontal to consistent spacing from case front.

I then used a spacer to mount remainder of the slides.

Step 2 – Mount hardware to drawers.
Next time I do through dovetail drawers, I may use undermount or at least bottom mount slides to better showcase the joinery.

Mount slides to side of drawer.

Test fit.

And you can see full extension feature here. As drawer closes, spring engages in last 2” of travel and snaps drawer shut. It is a nice feature that kids love to play with.

And here are all the drawers in.

Step 3 – Cut the templates for the curved pieces
I have white painted hardboard that I use for template materials. First I rip and cross cut to size. This allows me to test the set up for the real work pieces.

I use a french curve to mark the curves on the template

And then bandsaw to within a 1/16” of the line.

And use oscillating sander to sand to the line. This is same sequence I will use for the work piece so I lets me practice first.

Step 4 – Cut stretcher and leg stock to size
I set up and test stops using template

So I can now cut stock carefully to consistent size. I find that using a clamp to keep stock firmly against fence is safer on my hands and tends to prevent blade from pushing stock away from fence and screwing up cross cut accuracy.

I also try to find board thicknesses that allow me to cut cross cut both stretchers from one piece and before ripping to width. That way I know that the stretchers are a consistent length.

I double check that the base fits squarely under the case. I make a lot of mistakes so you will note that I double check a lot of things.

Step 5 – Cut joinery using Mortise Pal
First I check for largest mortise template that will fit stock.

I then chuck up a 1/4” up cut spiral bit and add a 5/8” PC style guide bushing. I mount the Mortise Pal on the stocking using the guidelines to adjust jig to match centering lines I put on first piece of stock.

I then use a plunge cut to make mortise.

And I have my joinery full cut

I then make spline stock from 1/4” plywood (true 1/4” not 7/32”) that has been ripped to width and run though 1/4” bull nose bit on router table.

Final step is to tape all the pieces so I can see cut lines that I mark using templates.

Step 6 – Cut Stretchers
Mark stretchers using template

Cut stretchers on bandsaw

I then make a fairing strip using 1/8” strip of poplar with two handles crazy glued on

Spray adhesive keeps 100 grit sandpaper on base

Then fair it using flexi strip.

Last step is to round over edges using 1/4” round over bit. Note that holding a long stretcher and guiding through bit on curved edge is tricky to do safely. I use a clamp to hold and keep my hands far away from bit. I also use stick clamped to table as a pivot point (if you have a starter pin in your router plate then you dont need this).

Step 7 – Cut cabriole legs
Using template I mark the pattern face to face on the non mortised sides.

I did a bad job taking picture here. To make this work, you cut away one curve. Re attach the piece so you can see the pattern and then rotate 90 deg and cut curve again. You end up with three off cuts.

I now have all my pieces together.

Step 8 – Cut the floating bases
Just as I did in previous steps, I used RAS to cross cut to length, used TS to cut to width and BS to cut to final shape.

To join base to case, I cut pocket screws in the floating base and then use another drill bit to make hole over sized. This will allow the screws to shift with wood movement.

Step 9 – Gluing Up
First I glued up base support to long stretchers, checking for square.

Then I assembled the short stretchers into the legs. I get a nice fit without glue.

I then glue side assemblies. Note that templates make good spacers to keep everything square.

Final step to to glue together entire base.

And I am done for today.

Next session is creating drawer fronts and finishing.

-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn

2 comments so far

View BTimmons's profile


2303 posts in 2719 days

#1 posted 02-24-2013 08:29 PM

Very nice, well documented too!

-- Brian Timmons -

View Roger's profile


20965 posts in 3038 days

#2 posted 02-24-2013 09:27 PM

Super nice, step-by-step. Comin along nicely

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed.

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