Last session, I built the compound legs using a lock miter. This session, I completed the legs and feet:
Started with stock marked for the feet and the apron sides.
This session, I created the feet to attach to the leg. This is done by routing a profile on three sides of a workpiece, cutting a miter and joining two work pieces at 90 deg. This is the end result.
First I chuck up a cove/fillet profile bit:
Then route the edges of the workpiece. Route the edge grain first, using a sacrificial push block. Then route the long grain.
Then use radial arm saw to cut one stick
The route the exposed end grain again
Cut off another piece. Route exposed end grain … do this until you have four pieces.
Then cut the work pieces in half.
The use a clamp to hold the workpiece against a sacrificial backer block. The clamp serves two purposes it hld the pieces together and it keeps my fingers away from the bit when routing a small workpiece. Route the profile on the final side.
If this sequence seems clumsy, I am open to suggestions about how do it a different way. I was really looking for an approach that let me route the widest piece of end grain in one pass, as I find the results are more difficult to control on narrow pieces (I will built a coping sled one day to fix this).
I then put a temporary fence on the RAS table to cut the miters.
What I love about using the RAS is that I can sneak up on a precise line as I can watch to see where the blade will hit the workpiece (with the saw shut off). Get it set, clamp in place and cut.
Flip temporary fence over, and cut left hand miters.
Now I can glue the feet together. I did not put splines or biscuits to reinforce the miter because the pieces are small and fussy. I believe the way I mount the legs with dowels will give sufficient strength to keep pieces together. I am interested if any more experienced furniture makers think the feet will be too weak over time. I actually used rub joints here (glue on each miter and rub the pieces together to fit.
I then use a template to drill dowel holes in the legs and the feet. I mark the holes and a center line on the template. I match the center line on one of the legs and screw a triangle in place to let me place the hole consistently on each leg.
Because the feet are 1” wider than the leg, I unscrew the triangle, flip the template over, move the centerline of the template to match a center line on the feet and screw the triangle back on to server as a guide to get consistent placement again.
Insert dowels and legs are completed with feet.
-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn