Not sure that these are the fairest of them all but they did come out ok.
Used left over face frame material to make the mirror frames. Started out by routing a two tiered rabbet – the inner rabbit for the 1/8” mirror (next time I will leave the mirror slightly proud so backer applies some pressure) and the outer rabbet for the 1/8” masonite backer board.
Most of you probably know this, but this project really drove home the importance of feather boards in both directions (pushing down and pushing into the fence) for cutting nice looking profiles and clear rabbets. I rout in 1/8” increments followed by a final 1/64” clear up pass. Still requires the profile sanding blocks to get a smooth final finish.
Here is the final product
I then took a brief break to completely re arrange my shop to fit the new tablesaw purchase (these little side distractions always slow me down)
I then used the radial arm saw for miter cuts to length
And used band clamps to glue up. I also used bar clamps to keep miters from sliding out of square during glue up.
In order to reinforce the joints, I tried to cut thin kerf splines, based on work I saw at NW Fine woodworking. Cut the spline opening with a japanese pull saw.
I then used triangles of veneer. These are there to keep miters from separating but I think I should have used two cuts or deeper cuts. These added some strength but not as much as I had hoped (dropped one frame and it opened up but did not break as it would have without splines).
Cleaned up spines with a sanding block and finished the frames using 4 coats of mini wax spray poly.
Decided to reinforce corners with L brackets (no sense in risking 7 years of bad luck by mirror dropping out of frame).
I used masonite spacers to position mirror in the frame.
And then attached 1/8” masonite backer board. I did not cut the outer rabbet wide enough to use screws … another mistake. So i had to use short brads every 2” with a nail gun – angled away from the mirror. Glad that I got it all positioned right the first time or else the backer would have been rip and replace.
Installed OOK hardware (they are worth the premium price) about 1/3 of the length from the top.
And they are ready to be hung.
Next steps … trim and lighting.
-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn