For the swap I sent Mos this “bent” mallet.

Constructed of Red Elm and Black Walnut and glued with TBII and Epoxy.
Both the head and the handle were made using off-center turning on my old ShopSmith 10ER. Each piece required 3 “center” points.

Here are a few more I gave as gifts this christmas.

Black Cherry and Black Walnut

Red Elm and White Oak

Black Walnut and Hard Maple

This is a simple .22 pistol box made of QS Sycamore, Walnut and Cherry. Constructed using a technique similar to these with brass rods used for the hinge pins.

These four bowls were made using the bowl from a board method. The rings were cut on a scrollsaw then glued together. The rough bowl blank was then turned on a lathe.
Constructed of Black Cherry, Silver Maple and PVA glue. Finished with salad bowl finish.
Questions and comments welcome.

These are some bowls that I recently finished. Made using the bowl from a board method.
All are finished with a food safe salad bowl finish. I have used mineral oil in the past but I think this will be much more durable.

Pic 2: A simple oblong sassafras bowl. 15”
Pic 3: Silver maple and sassafras. 12”
Pic 4: Silver maple with a variety of plugs. 11”
Pic 5: Birch and walnut chevron. 13”
Pic 6: The jig I came up with to turn the bottom of my bowls using a face plate instead of a chuck.

Thanks for looking
Scott

This is what I call a woodworkers solution to a metal working problem. Made of SPF 2×4’s from the big box store.
The pictures pretty much tell the story. As you can see in pics 3 & 4 the cone is made using the bowl from a board method.
I am more than happy with the performance of the cyclone. I have filled the drum 5 times and there is not a handful of dust in the dust collector bag. Much more effective than the thein separator I had before.
Up next is to replace the filter bag on the DC with a cartridge filter and re-plumb the dust collection pipe.

If you have any question feel free to ask.

Scott

This is by far my biggest cutting board yet. Made of birch and 21”x34” and nearly 3” thick. Topping the scale at over 34 pounds (15 kilos). With a board this long I wanted it to be as stable as possible, so to help minimize warp I made it extra thick and laminated in length, width and thickness (see pics 2 &3). Pic 4 shows the size of cutting board I usually make. Pic 5 is this cutting board on top of my Grizzly 1023 to give a sense of scale.

Thanks for looking
Scott

Pics 1 and 2 are of an end grain, slip match, birch cutting board. It measures 13.5”x16.5”x1.5” thick.
Pic 2 shows the finger groove. It is not a typical hand hold it is just used to get you fingers started under the board. It was cut with a chamfer (45 degree)bit.

Pic 3 is of a simple long grain cutting board made of silver maple and cherry.
Pic 4 shows the new board next to the old one I was asked to replace.
Pic 5 is of the quarter saw “rays”.

Pic 6 is the teaser. Anyone care to guess what it might be used for?

Thanks for looking

Scott

I like to think of this jig as Tim Taylor’s(from the tv show Home Improvement) take on the Scary Sharp Method.

I made my jig out of plywood to help prevent warp.

Glue and clamp together.

Make two 45 degree rip cuts with an 1/8” thick blade, rotating the jig 180 degrees after the first cut.

Move the fence over enough to roughly center the third kerf.

Cross cut to a length 1/16”-1/8” less than the length of the planer knives. 14 7/8” in this case.

Insert the knives into the slots. Set the jig on a flat surface and while applying downward pressure screw the end caps on.

The rusty knives in the jig before starting to sharpen.

I decided I wanted the knives held more securely and added an F-clamp to apply additional pressure to the end caps.

Here you can see that having a thick jig will help to keep the jig stable while pushing the jig across the sander.
I started with a 40 grit belt and sanded until I exposed fresh metal free of nicks.

Then I coated the knives in magic marker ink and changed to an 80 grit belt and sanded until all the 40 grit scratches were removed. Then ink & 120 grit, ink & 220 grit, ink & 320 grit. This is where I stopped since they were razor sharp and would shave arm hair.

The last step is to remove the bur on the back side of the knives. I did this by dragging the knife across the 320 grit belt(sander NOT running).

The wad of steel wool looking stuff is the amount of metal shavings removed during sharpening.

This jig could also be used by hand if you don’t have a Ridgid OSS (or used as an excuse to buy a new tool)
You would need a piece of granite, glass, or your tablesaw top with PSA sandpaper applied and lots of elbow grease.

This jig is a combination (and improvement imo) of LJ Garry’s jig: http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/JKnifeJig.htm and the Deulen jig http://www.amazon.com/Deulen-Jointer-Planer-Knife-Sharpening/dp/B004VDK692. Thanks to both of them for the inspiration.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

These palm boxes are constructed of catalpa and ambrosia maple.

Front, back and side cut to 7.5” and ripped to 3” width.

The length and width of the sides will be determined by the size of stock used. I used 3/4” throughout.

The glue up.

Marking the location of the hinge pins. 1/4” from the back and 3/8” from the top.

Creating a divot for the 1/8” brad point bit with an awl.

Using a double up piece of sandpaper to help with lid clearance. And clamps to secure it for drilling.

Using the drill press to drill an 1/8” hole for the brass hinge pin.

Creating a point on the hinge pin with my Ridgid OSS.

Sanding a 45 degree bevel on the back underside of the lid to make clearance for opening and closing.

The hinge pins made from brazing rod.

Creating a 45 degree chamfer on all corners. Top, bottom and sides.

After all the corners have been knocked off.

Smoothing the chamfers to create a gentle curve.

More smoothing with the random orbit.

I finished up with some hand sanding and a few coats of tung oil.

I would like to thank Argyllshire for the original blog on the subject:
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/19800

Thanks for looking.
Scott

For these bowls I raided my cutoff pile looking for anything 1” wide, 14” long and any thickness.
I made four 14” laminated “cutting board” blanks consisting of silver maple, sassafras, catalpa, cherry, walnut, sycamore and ash left over from other projects. I then cut three beveled rings from each blank. When I glued the bowls together I used one piece from each blank to give the bowls a random look.
Finished with tung oil and completed just in time for Christmas.

Thanks for looking and Merry Christmas.
Scott

A few months ago I was lurking on another forum where there was talk of turning OSB on a lathe. The general consensus was that it could not be done without stabilization. Well I did it without a stabilizer.
I will not be doing another though. I am not a fan of the look or turning while wearing a respirator.

The 12” plywood bowl was not that difficult to turn. And definitely not nearly as dusty. It was made from a single 12” piece of 3/4” ply using the bowl from a board method. Finished with one coat of water based black analine dye dissolved in alcohol instead of water. Then a few coats of poly.

Pics 5 & 6 are of 14” silver maple and sassafras bowl.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

This endgrain butcher block consisting of black walnut, black cherry, silver maple and sassafras is 12”x16” and nearly 2” thick.

Pic 5 shows the first glue up needed to make an endgrain first generation board.
Pic 6 another glue up option I considered.

Finished with mineral oil and beeswax.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

Pics 2,3: Sassafras and Silver Maple roughly 15” diameter
Pics 4,5: A cherry and unknown wood(possibly birch) chevron bowl roughly 12” in diameter.
Pic 6: The blank used to make the bowl in pic 2 before being cut into beveled rings.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

This was my attempt at a “bulge illusion” butcher block.
http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/farid/Hany_Farid/Illusions/Entries/2011/6/5_Bulge_Illusion.html
The illusion is not as pronounced as I had hoped for.
The angle of viewing and distance seem to effect the illusion.
I see the illusion best in thumbnail pic 4 before it is clicked to be enlarged.

Pic 2 show curved handholds cut with a stack dado.
Pic 5 before mineral oil and beeswax were applied.

Book-match Black Walnut and Silver Maple

Thanks for looking.
Scott

Kentucky Coffee Tree, Black Walnut, and Silver Maple
Second generation mitered laminate. pattern:30-60AD
Finished with mineral oil and beeswax.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

This 15” bowl uses a sliding dovetail to join QS sycamore and silver maple. When the rings are cut on an angle the bevel cut exposes the dovetail making a sliding dovetail look like a regular dovetail.
This was my first attempt at a sliding dovetail. I quickly found out there is virtually no room for error if a gap-free joint is needed.
Finished with mineral oil and beeswax.

Pics 3,4,5 These are the mates/opposite of two previously posted bowls that I just finished. You may recognize the patterns from britboxmaker and proskywood, thanks again you two. Finished with tung oil.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

Pics 2 and 3 are my take on spalm’s “feathers” cutting board. walnut, ambrosia maple, spalted birch, kentucky coffee tree, cherry, and sassafras. 15”

Pic 4 is a new design I am trying out. It is called a second generation mitered laminate. SPF and sassafras. 8”

Pic 5 is a typical chevron with the same woods as the “feathers” bowl. Wiped down with alcohol. 15”
The bowl in pic 5 flew off the lathe to the concrete floor while sanding with 80 grit. I could use any recommendations on a power sander to finish sand it.

Scott

This “z” chair is constructed of sassafras with catalpa splines.
I first saw this type of chair on one of Rowdys posts: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/33945
Daren has made a similar “C” chair: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/34036
The strength is provided by tapered dovetail splines: http://www.dovetailspline.com/

Here is what is left of my last batch(18) of hive bodies. The corners have rabbets reinforced with kehoe dovetail splines and no metal fasteners to corrode. Water shedding handles cut on the tablesaw. Each hive body is dipped in 300 degree paraffin which causes moisture in the wood to boil out. The moisture that boils out is replaced with paraffin as the box cools. Pic 5 shows the top of my dipping tank. I have to use another box to keep the box being dipped from floating.

More info on dipping: http://www.queenrightcolonies.com/uploads/HotWaxDippingofBeehives.pdf (not my site)
An excerpt from the above pdf:
“There are two reasons why apiarists hot wax dip hive parts. They
are to:
• preserve wooden hive parts so that they are protected from the
effects of weather, fungi and other causes of decay
• sterilize hive parts salvaged from hives infected with the honey
bee brood disease, American foulbrood.”
And I will add another reason to the above quote:

So I don’t have to paint these boxes.

Scott

This is a butcher block I finished recently. Approximately 12”x18” and over 2” thick. Bookmatched cherry and walnut. I wiped it down with water to raise the grain two times then finished with mineral oil and beeswax.