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View Ampeater's profile

Using a router to make the "Lazy Larry" #1: Making the "Lazy Larry" using a router and router jig.

1891 days ago by Ampeater | 8 comments »

Degoose showed us how to make the jig that uses a bandsaw to make the spiral sections of his “Lazy Larry”. Well I made the jig, but my old small bandsaw just wasn’t up to the task. I wasn’t about to quit, so I decided to try to make a jig that I could use with my router. It took me awhile to figure it out (using Sketchup), but once I did, it was rather easy to make the jig. Here is how to make the jig. Picture 1. 1. Cut a 3/4” thick piece of MDF ...

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View patron's profile

tutorial #1: RIBBONS ANYONE ?

769 days ago by patron | 54 comments »

i been back to the shop more recentlymaking some giftsand in the process of making some accents for themthought you might like to know how to do it this is the ready parts to be used for thatand how i made them i start by selecting the woods that have some contrast to each otherand are different than the background they will be inall the same size and with double tape on both ends(make them wider and thicker than the finished partor the processes will eat up your wood) laying them on...

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View RobertJ's profile

Turning Bowls from Green Wood - Tricks and Techniques

793 days ago by RobertJ | 6 comments »

IntroductionI’ve been turning large chunks of un-seasoned firewood since I started turning bowls over a year and a half ago. Much of the wood is turned without regard to it’s moisture content…I don’t have time to wait thru the recommended aging periods and I don’t choose to rough turn bowls and set them aside for a few months before turning them a second time. This isn’t about attitude, it’s about loving the experience of turning and accepting the cha...

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View Beezle's profile

Notes on French polishing

811 days ago by Beezle | 4 comments »

Why French polish? For about a third of the projects I do, there is usually one surface that I like to do what I call a “guitar” finish. That is, perfectly flat, clear and shiny. As in, how most guitars are finished. The hunt for chatoyancy . And I have tried every path I could find to achieve that just short of spraying nc lacquer, which I am not going to bother with. The biggest disappointment for me has been water based “lacquer.” Not hard to work with. Used t...

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View patron's profile

sauna door and casing build tutorial

812 days ago by patron | 32 comments »

here is a step by step of the sauna door i recently made http://lumberjocks.com/projects/66801 it has some standard things and some different innovations i though it might be of some use to someone thinking of building a doorand how the parts go together first off i only had access to the big box store for suppliesso got 2×6 redwood for the door frame and the casing here is the casing parts with the stops and room for the insert seals(notice the side rip goes down furt...

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View luv2learn's profile

Mug Build and Joining Experiment Using the Tilt Feature of my Router Lift

871 days ago by luv2learn | 14 comments »

This is my first attempt at blogging and I must admit that it has been more frustrating to do than actually building the mug experiment. A while ago I posted two mug projects on my Lumberjocks projects page. Mugs and More mugs The steps I took to build all of them was the same. The only thing that changed was the materials that I used. Each of those mugs were built using 24 individual segments or staves. I joined a 7.5 degree bevel on each side of the staves then butt glued them to...

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View rance's profile

Table Saw setup for Half Lap Joint

873 days ago by rance | 23 comments »

When you need to set the height of your TS blade to half the thickness of your workpiece(regardless of its thickness), try building a teeter totter. A what? Like this:   Get a flat scrap of wood and mark perpendicular lines across equal distance between each other and from one end of the board. This is your teeter totter. Raise your TS blade higher than you expect to cut and rotate it so one tooth is at top dead center. Lay that flat board across the blade where the middle ...

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View patron's profile

dodoe tutoria from a PM

874 days ago by patron | 23 comments »

i got a PM yesterday from an LJ’erhttp://lumberjocks.com/Doeasking about a pattern i used on a gift box to schummiehttp://lumberjocks.com/Schummie and as my server is punishing me again for talking with you all(it takes me 20 min to get on LJ’s now)i sent (well tried to) an e-mail with pictures to doe(don’t you know it won’t send)so i thought to do it here as i can load the pics one by one anywayand maybe some others might get some ideas from it_ doe sorry...

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View SimonSKL's profile

Making a dust hood for my Ridgid oscillating sander

1683 days ago by SimonSKL | 17 comments »

After reading many favorable reviews of the Ridgid oscillating sander (model # EB44242) and with a 15% rebate offered by the manufacturer, I finally bought this sander as my Christmas present. The more I use it the more I like the sander. I would have given it a 5 star rating if it has better dust collection capability when the belt sander is used. The dust just got collected at the end of the belt and landed all over the floor. I thought there must be a better way to collect the dust. Here i...

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View Brit's profile

Saw Talk #10: Hand Shaping and Sharpening the Teeth on a Backsaw

883 days ago by Brit | 62 comments »

You know I said at the end of my last post that I’d post a picture of each saw and tell you how I was going to sharpen them and why? Well I lied. :-) The temptation of my restored backsaws, a saw vise and a bundle of saw files was just too much. I had to sharpen a saw, but which one? I thought about it for a while and settled on the little Spear & Jackson 8” Dovetail saw. Remember this one? I chose it for two reasons: For a dovetail saw, the depth of cut is quite big at 50mm. ...

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