This is the finished hive body.
Constructed from catalpa with kehoe dovetail splines “dipped” in 300 degree(max) paraffin and gum rosin.
I wanted a long lasting hive body without metal fasteners to corrode. I think this fits the bill,
Outside dimensions are 19 7/8” long x 16 1/4” wide(3/4” thick stock). These are the typical dimensions of a 10 frame langstroth hive.

Rip to 9 5/8” wide

Crosscut front/back to 16 1/4” and sides to 19 1/8”

Front and back boards have a 3/4” wide x 3/8” deep rabbet on the short sides

Front and back boards have a 3/4” wide x 3/8” deep rabbet on one long side to serve as the frame rest
All three rabbets completed

Jig used to mark screw hole placement with awl.

Pre-drilling on my 10ER

Glue, clamp and screw

Water-shedding hand hold jig.

Hive body held in place by shims

Trying to show blade clearance. (blade is actually below the box)
With the blade below the box I start the saw and raise the blade into the wood. Then tilt the blade to 45 degrees and raise the blade again. Then back to 90 and raise and over to 45 and raise then back to 90 degrees. I use 2 revolutions(total) of the blade elevation crank to complete the handhold (Grizzly 1023)

The finished hand hold.

The glue-up used to make the splines

Cutting strips to make the splines

My setup for cutting the splines.
Shop-made magnetic feather boards used as stop blocks.
Grey wood attached to mitergauge to make 1 degree wedges.
Blade tilted to 83 degrees (or 7).

The mountain of splines needed for this batch of boxes.

Jig attached to route out the screw holes.

Router with 5/8” bushing. I prefer the bushing over the bearing that came with the jig.

Glue the spline and socket and tap the wedged spline in for a perfect fit.

My options for cutting the splines close to flush.

Sanding the splines flush.

Top view of the dipping tank with an extra box on top of the one being dipped to prevent floating. The moisture left in the wood is boiled out and when removed from the tank replaced with paraffin as it cools.

A few of the completed hive bodies.

.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Cut 30 degree strips to make a typical chevron

Glue applied. The clamps have not been applied yet in the above picture.

Draw 2 lines from like points to find the “D” point. Rough “A” points shown but will not be used in this pattern.

Cut through “D” at 45 degrees

The 2nd generation emerging.

My typical gluing set-up. Top and bottom cauls to keep the board flat. Plus cauls to apply even pressure from the pipe clamps.

The second generation waiting for a third.
Woods:SPF and catalpa.
Pattern:30-45D

Cut a 12”x12”x3/4” square and draw an X from corner to corner to find the middle.

Using a compass draw a circle in the middle of the board the size you want the bottom of the bowl to be. In this case around 4”.

Draw concentric circles spaced the thickness of the board (in this case 3/4”)

Drill 1/8” holes at 45 degrees on the 4 inner circles to insert a scroll saw blade into later.

Cut the outer circle at 90 degrees on the BS or scroll saw

Tilt the Scroll saw table to 45 degrees. Take the top of the scroll saw blade loose and slide the blade through the hole and reattach the top of the blade. Cut the first ring free. Repeat for the other rings.

Glue and stack the rings together and weight it down until the glue dries. ( I have since built a simple bowl press but weight will work fine)

I only have a face plate that must be screwed on so I glued a piece of paper between the bowl and a sacrificial wood disc that will receive the screws. When the turning is done just tap a chisel into the joint and the paper will tear in two. Then just sand the paper/glue off.

And the last step is the most fun. All you have to do is turn the pilot holes out , sand, and finish.