As I’ve mentioned, the stand is essentially a direct implementation of Christopher Schwarz's $175 Workbench. My shelf is different, and I changed some part dimensions and locations slightly, but it’s the same stand.
This rendering shows some details about the locations of the stringers and stretchers. It doesn’t show the location of the top-most hole in each front leg, but it’s 2” top-to-center.
The stand required four 2”x8” yellow pine boards, plus some leftovers from the boards I used on the torsion box frame for the cleats (full-resolution image).
I didn’t take any in-progress photos, but here’s the completed stand without the shelf panel.
Here it is with the shelf panel installed (with just glue—no screws).
Here’s a photo of cleat, already drilled and counterbored, used to bolt the top to the stand.
Schwarz’s article clearly explains how to build the stand, but here are some notes specific to my build:
- When making the legs, I cut four lengths of 2×8s, glued each pair together, and then cut out the legs from the glued slabs. That gave me nice smooth, square leg sides.
- I don’t have a dado blade, so I used my regular blade (a medium-kerf Tenryu blade) to nibble out the tenons (as if it were a very narrow dado blade). That was slow, and the tenons had lots of small grooves from the beveled blade that I had to sand down. It worked, but I probably should have taken the time to create some sort of of jig or guide board and used my router.
- I used drawbores to help attach the stringers that connect the front and back legs. I used only one peg per joint, and I placed the holes too near the ends of the tenons, but I really like the technique. It may not add any strength to the joint, but it sure did clamp the stringers to the legs well.
- After I built the end assemblies, I had to deepen the top two dog holes in each front leg. That means I had to drill into the tenons.
- I used only one bolt on each side of the long stretchers. The dog holes in the legs didn’t allow me to use two bolts on each side. The stand seems solid enough, but I still would have preferred two bolts per side. I just didn’t plan things out carefully enough here.
After the stand was complete, all I had to do was drill and counterbore the holes in the top for the mounting bolts and add the top. Here it is, ready for finishing and adding the casters.
-- Ron Stewart