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|03-04-2016 09:42 AM||
Can you recommend a ROS for rubbing out - 17 replies
I’m looking for a sander to help rub out finishes faster. I’m assuming I’ll need a disc type ROS. I’ve never owned one of these and currently use a Milwaulkee 1/4 sheet sander (they call it a ROS but I don’t think its really the same as the circle type). Anyway, I think I should base my purchase somewhat off of the ...
|02-22-2016 09:44 PM||
How to clamp a finished surface without damage? - 6 replies
I’ve been making crokinole boards and I’ve ruined some finished decks by my clamping procedure and need some advice. I finish the deck and rub it out after it cures, then I clamp it down to the finished base. Last time I put a towel over the deck and piled sand bags over that to weigh it down. The sand evened out the weight but I ...
|12-12-2015 04:56 AM||
Some advice needed on finishing waterbased dye - 10 replies
I’m making a crokinole board that has a plain birch playing surface and outer rail that match. I’ve already covered the playing surface which is still separate with a waterbased polyacrylic. Now for the base; I’ve dyed the base dark with an aniline dye which is also waterbased. Then I’ve glued the natural birtch rail arou...
|11-26-2015 04:01 AM||
Which type of sander should I get next? - 18 replies
Up until now I’ve only used a 1/4 sheet ROS for pretty much everything other than hand sanding. From time to time I think that it would be handy to simply hold the item against a flat sanding surface though. I get by with putting a sheet on a flat surface and moving my work piece back and forth, but I’m starting to batch out projects...
|11-09-2015 07:20 PM||
I'm ruining my finish by wrapping too quickly - 11 replies
I’ve been selling some items and wrapping in bubble wrap for shipping. I notice that after some time in the wrap its marred the finish. I used poly acrylic on this. On another one I wrapped a painted item in wax paper. It is messed up as well. I’m very frustrated. How long do I need to wait? Or is there a better way to ship?
|10-07-2015 05:10 PM||
Can I use acrylic over polyurethane? - 2 replies
Hey Jocks! Quick question for you. I’m finishing two crokinole boards differently, one is plain and the other has a stain. On the plain I’ve used acrylic and on the other I’ve used a stain/poly. Both are waterbased. My question is, once I’ve got to the level of stain I want, I wish to continue adding clear coats; can I us...
|02-25-2012 04:07 AM||
Delta 12" Planer 22-540 knife change help - 2 replies
So I have this used planer that’s due for a knife change. I don’t have the manual or any tools that may or may not have come with it. Anyway, just wondering if anyone has experience with this and if they could confirm the process for me. I found a nice video that outlines the process for a different model. So I’m planning ...
|10-20-2009 02:45 PM||
Oak in a cutting board? - 5 replies
I know that oak is very porus in it’s end grain and is not a good choice for that type of cutting board but how about for a flat board, is that okay?
|03-08-2009 04:07 PM||
Drawer Question - 14 replies
I rarely see drawers with stain or finish on them, why is that? Do they stick or something? You think they would look better finished. Perhaps people just don’t do it because it isn’t seen, but I thought you wanted to seal all sides from moisture changes, and if that’s the case, then why not drawers? Thanks.
|02-25-2009 05:09 AM||
How do you make this? - 10 replies
I was looking for some inspiration for making a valet and came across this beautiful box. I doubt I will make this because I would rather come up with my own design however I find myself intrigued with how this was done. Can someone explain this to me? Was a square box built first and then the sides were curved on perhaps a beltsander? If th...
|01-22-2009 09:46 PM||
Help ... warped cutting board - 20 replies
I’m having a problem with this board warping and wondering if anyone has repair suggestions. I made the mistake of shellacing one face only and as a result the base is expanding. What should I do now? Soak and clamp it? Plane it flat again? Burn it and make another one?!!!! In the pic you can see the left side lifting up from the cou...
|01-19-2009 05:41 AM||
inlay question - 3 replies
I was thinking I’d like to try an inlay into a canoe paddle. My question is should I inlay while the paddle is still a flat blank or after it has been carved. I imagine it’s easier to do the work while the paddle is flat however I can imagine carving away some of the inlay by accident. Any suggestions?
|01-15-2009 05:43 PM||
Another vise question - 2 replies
I’m thinking about my bench project constantly and I have yet another vise question. I bought a regular front vise like this …I may add another vise to this bench in the future but right now I’m going with one. So, if I’m only mounting one, should I put it on the front or the tail. They say it will take 24” jaws ...
|01-15-2009 03:21 AM||
Wood choice for vise? - 6 replies
I’ve started work on a new bench and I have a question regarding the wood for the vise. The instructions call for a close grain hardwood like maple or birch. I was just looking through a price list of my local supplier and I see that I could get either red or gray elm, beech or ash for much less than maple or birch. Would these woods al...
|11-05-2008 03:19 AM||
wood conditioner - 1 reply
I could use a little advice. I was about to use a Minwax waterbased pigment stain because I had some left over, and I conditioned the wood ahead of time with Minwax water-based pre-stain wood conditioner. I haven’t had great results with this stain in the past and have since learned that dyes go in better than pigments. So I’m g...
|07-28-2008 04:37 PM||
Canoe bookcase help. - 2 replies
Hello Jocks, Wondering if you could help me with a problem. I’ve been asked to put some shelves into an existing canoe that’s been cut in half for decorative purposes. Now how do I go about cutting this shelf to fit properly around the inside curve of the canoe. I hope you know what I’m talking about and perhaps you’v...
|07-21-2008 11:24 PM||
Router table question - 11 replies
Here is a router extension table I just added to my table saw… I was going to make a plastic insert but the smallest sheet over at HD costs $72 if you can believe it. I could buy a proper insert from Lee Valley for half that. However I was planning on keeping the cost down if possible. Does anyone know where I can buy plastic she...
|06-25-2008 03:18 AM||
#7 Jointer plane - 11 replies
Does anyone have any of these old Stanley Baileys or something similar that they could part with? I could use it. Just pm me and let me know what you would like for it. Thanks. I can’t seem to find them in my area and I’m sure not going to order one in from England.
|06-22-2008 03:05 PM||
Wood and tile question - 6 replies
Could anyone help me with a finishing question. I’m making an oak table and I plan on using a tung oil finish (probably minwax because I have some of that; I think it is mixed with a bit of varnish). the problem is for the top. I have made a frame that will hold a tile surface. Will oil be protective enough to keep the grout from getti...
|06-17-2008 12:01 AM||
Mission Table Question - 5 replies
To anyone who has experience building this style furniture… I’m just wondering what is typically done with the edges? They always looks very square but are they really chamfered? rounded over? just sanded a bit? any of the above? Thanks.