Alright, I know it has been a long time since I posted on this, but here are the answers to your most pressing questions: no I didn’t die, no I did not quit on these, and yes I have a life that frequently pulls me away from projects in the shop :).
So you really just want to see what they look like first, right? Here we are as of tonight:
So now for some updates. Things have gone pretty well on these, but allow me to make a few notes. Here are the lessons I have learned the hard way:
- A metal blade bed is actually a good idea. The wood tends to move when getting peened in place and I think it is better controlled with a better blade bed.
- Even the best laid plans have their twists, so even pre-cutting the escapements there was considerable work here. Expect to go through a lot of sandpaper here. Or, you can get yourself a carbide burr for the dremel and make relatively quick work of it. I cannot sing the praises of these things enough. I got a 1/4” diameter burr with 1/8” shank, double cut, for about $5 on ebay. At about 15,000 RPM, this thing eats steel for breakfast. This is so superior to the aluminum oxide stones I used on my last plane, it is simply unbelievable. It has already lasted for two planes and still has plenty of life left in it. One important thing to note, and I can’t stress this enough, it does not generate dust, it generates tiny shards of steel. These will get embedded in your skin very quickly if you aren’t careful, don’t ask how I ask.
- Be very careful where you place your rivets. On one of the planes, one of the rivets was placed right where the final shape needed to be, so there is a slight imperfection to it. Needless to say, that’s the plane I’m keeping.
- Precision ground steel is AWESOME!
That’s about it for now, just a brief update really, as most all the actual work and techniques I have used were covered in my last series.
-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science