Well, the finish line is well in sight now, boys and girls! This is the second-to-last installment of our series, so let’s get going!
dremel with aluminum oxide grinding stones (see tips in last episode)
flat mill bastard file
So first things first, I went to work to use the beefy belt sander again. I used it to shape all the convex curves. This made it much faster. A big strong belt sander sure helps. I bet a handheld belt sander would also work well, as those things have boatloads of torque. My belt sander is just my ridgid combo belt/spindle sander and the belt attachment doesn’t let you really bear down on it. Anyway, after another fire-free episode at work, we have something like so:
With this taken care of, I got the infills down to width. This was a more time consuming process than I had anticipated. I think that this will be another benefit of precision ground stock: you can use the planer to get the stock to just thicker than the width of the sole piece. Then when it comes time to fit, a hand plane can take just a couple shavings to final fit. I ended up trimming on the table saw and using a block plane to final fit. I put them in and used an awl to trace the shape and rough trimmed on the band saw to just over the line. We’ll use a belt sander and spindle sander later to get it all down to where it should be.
I epoxied in the infills. Because the rear infill is going into a confined space, I cut some saw kerfs into the side and trimmed off the very tip of the infill so that any excess epoxy has a place to go.
After it dried, I used the sander to get everything looking nice. While drying, I worked on the lever cap. I just used sandpaper to get sanded up to 400 grit. It looks pretty good if I say so myself:
So here they are together (so happy together…)
So the final touch now is a chamfer along the sides. What I did was use my calipers set to half the width of the side steel pieces and locked the measurement in. I used this as a scribe, since the tips are hardened. You can sort of see it here:
I found that this was a little hard to see in practice, so I used a black sharpie along the lines and re-scribed. Here is a shot of that:
You could just as easily use bluing, but I don’t have any.
Don’t scribe the line too deep, otherwise it will be a bear to get sanded out, especially this late in the game.
So I went to work with primarily the flat file. This was actually surprisingly quick work. The hardest part is inside the curve. If I had a full size half round file, it would be gobs easier. As it was, I used a half round needle file. That made things not so fun. I followed up the file with sandpaper up to 400 grit.
After the chamfer, I just sanded the sides up to 400 grit. I then put it all together just to give it another use. After these shots, I put some Formby’s low gloss tung oil finish on it. The next installment will cover the lever cap screw and some final tuning.
Time Elapsed to this point: ~22 hrs
-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science